Replacing TRV

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31 Jul 2008
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is there any way that i can replace a trv without draining the CH system?

ive heard a few bad things about using freeze spay.

what do you think?

PD :evil:
 
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You can freeze it, or bung the system. Either provides an opportunity for a soggy black carpet.
 
its a nice vinyl!! not so much of a problem!

how long does it take to replace the TRV, only a couple of minutes i would have thought! what do you think?
 
Between two and 200 minutes, depending. Plumbing's like that, especially the first time you try someting.
 
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Drayton Drain Easy Kit works on open vented systems provided the F/E tank is no more than 30ft above the TRV.

Make sure you open the bleed screw on the rad until no more water comes out - this will show that a vacuum has been set up in the pipework - then shut the bleed screw. Also close the lockshield valve (count turns!) before removing the TRV.

I have done this many times and never had any spillage. You see the water bobbing up and down in the flow pipe. Just be careful you do not lose the pipe through the floor boards.

Don't know about unvented.
 
Between two and 200 minutes, depending. Plumbing's like that, especially the first time you try someting.

hahaa, i know what you mean!

im pretty quick at replacing rads so i cant see this as being too major! i may give it a go and see what happens?
 
i cant see this as being too major!
It's what you can't see, that gets you!
Suppose the nut's thread is different and the olive's squashed into the pipe, which has also been kinked, as they often are?
 
i see your point chris

The valve is quite new though so im hoping all is ok.

the problem is that the previous owners had sumhow managed to snap the plastic valve clean off! i am holding it!!

we have been in the house for 7mths now and there have been no probs, we have just left it alone, but due to a bit of high pressure(which has been sorted), it has managed to find a hole in the top of the valve and is now starting to leak.

hmmmm!
 
ive been a muppet!

i have unscrewed knurled ring that the plastic top was originally attached to......i only need this part! no mucking around with the rest as i originally thought.

bit worried why it was leaking though!! will fix a new top and see what happens!!

cheers everyone for their help
 
the plastic thermostatic part is not a water part, so changing it will not cure the leak.

the purpose of bunging the system is to seal it. yours is unvented so it is already sealed.
 

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