Rewiring a kitchen

[jstrong]

Can anyone advise if this will meet building regs?

Create a ring main with 2.5mm cable to supply five double power points above the worktop and spur off to dp power points below the worktop for a dishwasher washing machine and tumble dryer to plug in?

Will also run a length of 6mm for the built in oven!

If this isn't correct can anyone help in laymans terms which would be the correct method?

Many thanks

 

[NewOrder]

You know this will need to be notified to the local authority under part P?

I won't common on the technicalities of what you propose because I am not qualified

 

[BigRobCanUFixIt]

they're gonna tell you to get a part p sparks out!!!

 

[jstrong]

Yes I know it's notifiable and they have been notified.

I want to do the donkey work and get an electrician to then check it and sign it off.

Would just like some pointers on the correct method.

 

[NewOrder]

OK Get the Yellow Pages out.....


Just kidding Good luck.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If DP switches are installed to isolate each appliance, rather than one DP for the three, it seems fair.
With the kitchen being an area of high loads it may be worth considering having two circuits serving under worktop appliances and above worktop appliances.
If the cooking appliance output is less than 15kW a 32A MCB on 4.00 T&E could be acceptable.
But with cooker/ovens: I would firstly follow the installation instruction supplied with the appliance and make sure that is correct, then I would consider the cable for the circuit I was installing and make provisions for any upgrades in the future.
If the route is only short could consider putting in 10mm T&E
but 6mm would/should be enough for most upgrades.
All cable sizing most be factored and possibly de-rated, if the route of the cable takes you through thermal insulation

 

[Taylortwocities]

I want to do the donkey work and get an electrician to then check it and sign it off.

.

It doesn't work like that.

Get an electrician who will sign off the work.
Let him tell you:
what needs to be done,
the cables that are required,
the cable routes that are allowed,
if the supp bonding is OK or if it needs renewing,
if the planned work will comply with the latest regulations with respect to the circuit protection regime that you have
etc

Under his direction he will probably let you run in the cables and sink boxes, etc.
He will want to see what you have done before its plastered over.

Then, after second fix, he might be oprepared to inspect and test and personally certify that the work complies with BS7671.

 

[Paul_C]

and spur off to dp power points below the worktop for a dishwasher washing machine and tumble dryer to plug in

I wouldn't put all three of those appliances on the one ring final circuit. Switch all three on simultaneously and you could already be over the 32A ring rating without even allowing for other portable appliances like kettles and toasters.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Yes I know it's notifiable and they have been notified.

OK - so what did you tell them will be the way that you will ensure the work complies with P1?

You definitely told them you'd be doing the design and construction yourself?

I want to do the donkey work and get an electrician to then check it and sign it off.

What have the council asked you to have an electrician do? "Sign it off" is pretty vague. Clearly as you have notified you aren't one of the misguided fools who thinks he can DIY notifiable work and then get an electrician to come along and declare that he did it all, so it's important to know what the council are expecting from this electrician, because you need to make sure that he's expecting it too.

Will they want him to sign the I&T part of a 3-part EIC?

Will they want him to produce an Electrical Installation Condition Report (aka a Periodic Inspection Report)?

Will they want him to have had design input, or to have supervised/guided your installation work?

Would just like some pointers on the correct method.

Generally if you want an electrician to be involved with you doing the donkey work you have to find your electrician first and agree with him exactly what work he is happy for you to do, and you have to let him make decisions on areas which involve Wiring Regulations compliance, so that means asking him all of these questions.

I really can't stress strongly enough that you need to get your electrician on-board, and aware of what he's going to have to do regarding "signing it off", before you do a thing, because if you don't it could all come unravelled.

 

[jstrong]

Thanks for all the advice and guidence, I shall now contact an electrician and ask him to prepare a design with agreed intervals of inspection before finally signing off.

Thanks again.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I shall now contact an electrician and ask him to prepare a design with agreed intervals of inspection before finally signing off.

But will that satisfy the council?

You still don't seem to get it.

You have notified your LABC about electrical work to which regulation 12 of the Building Regulations applies.

When you did that, what did you say would be the way that you would ensure that the work would comply with P1?

Whatever it was, that is the way that the work now has to be done, or you will not get your completion certificate.

And you still haven't explained what you mean by "signing off".

 

[Paul_C]

When you did that, what did you say would be the way that you would ensure that the work would comply with P1?

If it was just a building notice as per 12(2)(a) and regulation 13, then he probably didn't state a specific way.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I can never understand why anybody would be so daft as to use a Building Notice unless they are experienced and really know what they are doing.

Fine for a professional builder who knows what the regulations require, and knows how to comply, and knows that he will comply, but anybody not in that position runs the risk of Building Control saying "nope, that won't do".

A Building Notice is no cheaper, but you throw away the chance to have Building Control tell you that they will accept what they plan to do.

So jstrong is going to pay an electrician to do the design, he is going to pay him to inspect, he is going to pay him to test, he is going to pay Sussex Building Control at least £125 to notify (possibly more if whatever the electrician provides is not deemed to be "suitable", and he's tossed away the opportunity to find out before it's too late).

It would almost certainly have been cheaper to just use a registered electrician to do the lot.