Riello 40 Oil Boiler not firing up
- Thread starter PeterOB
- Start date
Sponsored Links
- Joined
- 19 Jul 2007
- Messages
- 5,941
- Reaction score
- 1,139
- Country
No polarisation needed. Do you have voltage to the burner
I usually work on gas burners but can hopefully provide a few pointers (do occasionally work on oil).
The power will likely come through the stat and over temp stat sited above your burner (to reset the over temp, unscrew the cap and push in the button), then to the control box base. Check for power.
If OK, re-seat the control box, ensure it's pushed fully forward (also check all cables in base are secure and that none are broken and that base to box connections are clean). The wiring looks correct (obvs without tracing it back).
The clicking you could hear was the control box going through it's sequence to combustion (pre-purge - ignition - fuel - check flame)
A few observations - it looks like the pipe to the air damper ram has been crimped over (which is probably what's keeping the damper open).
the valve in front of the burner is a fire valve and has a fusible link inside which melts when it gets hot to interrupt the oil in the event of a fire, this is easily broken if wound forcibly in.
Before you attempt to fire it you should check the oil flow by removing the flexi from the pump (turn off the valve at the tank first). There should also be a filter somewhere in the oil line - this will need replacing probably.
That flexi should ideally run below the burner, not over the case.
Here's a cheat sheet I did a while ago:
To check photocell, remove from control box. Re-fit control box and fire up burner. If it fires after 12 secs and then locks out after 5 secs, the photocell is faulty.
Check continuity of the blue and brown wires and blue and black wires of the solenoid coil. If no continuity, then replace coil.
Check voltage on white wire to terminal 7 of 530 SE control box. This should be 50V AC +/- 3 volts.
If no voltage present, change burner motor.
As a last resort, change the control box 530SE.
And i've hopefully attached a fault finding chart:
HTH
The power will likely come through the stat and over temp stat sited above your burner (to reset the over temp, unscrew the cap and push in the button), then to the control box base. Check for power.
If OK, re-seat the control box, ensure it's pushed fully forward (also check all cables in base are secure and that none are broken and that base to box connections are clean). The wiring looks correct (obvs without tracing it back).
The clicking you could hear was the control box going through it's sequence to combustion (pre-purge - ignition - fuel - check flame)
A few observations - it looks like the pipe to the air damper ram has been crimped over (which is probably what's keeping the damper open).
the valve in front of the burner is a fire valve and has a fusible link inside which melts when it gets hot to interrupt the oil in the event of a fire, this is easily broken if wound forcibly in.
Before you attempt to fire it you should check the oil flow by removing the flexi from the pump (turn off the valve at the tank first). There should also be a filter somewhere in the oil line - this will need replacing probably.
That flexi should ideally run below the burner, not over the case.
Here's a cheat sheet I did a while ago:
To check photocell, remove from control box. Re-fit control box and fire up burner. If it fires after 12 secs and then locks out after 5 secs, the photocell is faulty.
Check continuity of the blue and brown wires and blue and black wires of the solenoid coil. If no continuity, then replace coil.
Check voltage on white wire to terminal 7 of 530 SE control box. This should be 50V AC +/- 3 volts.
If no voltage present, change burner motor.
As a last resort, change the control box 530SE.
And i've hopefully attached a fault finding chart:
HTH
Sponsored Links
One other thing (you probs know this but I'm gonna tell you anyway), it may have just locked out (which is why it's not doing anything)
The red reset button will glow but you won't see it in daylight. You often need to hold it in for a few seconds to get it to reset.
Let us know how you get on
The red reset button will glow but you won't see it in daylight. You often need to hold it in for a few seconds to get it to reset.
Let us know how you get on
Thanks to all of you who replied to this thread.
I am now the happy proprietor of a dual fuel heated home.
Turns out the capacitor was at fault all along. The lack of power going to the burner turned out to be a loose connection at plug, sorted that and burner happily fired up.
I didn't get a chance yet to check filter in oil line. Will it be ok to continue using burner given the fact that it has sat now for nearly two years without use?
Thanks again to all of you for the advice.
I am now the happy proprietor of a dual fuel heated home.
Turns out the capacitor was at fault all along. The lack of power going to the burner turned out to be a loose connection at plug, sorted that and burner happily fired up.
I didn't get a chance yet to check filter in oil line. Will it be ok to continue using burner given the fact that it has sat now for nearly two years without use?
Thanks again to all of you for the advice.
You really should replace the oil filter as there could be water in the bowl. There may also be a separator that requires draining.
Water in the fuel line will quickly kill the oil pump.
Also would be a good idea to check oil tank for water and bacterial growth.
Burner head will probably need cleaning and I would always replace the oil nozzle (cheap).
Lastly, the burner should be tested for correct pump pressure and flue gas analysis carried out.
HHT
Water in the fuel line will quickly kill the oil pump.
Also would be a good idea to check oil tank for water and bacterial growth.
Burner head will probably need cleaning and I would always replace the oil nozzle (cheap).
Lastly, the burner should be tested for correct pump pressure and flue gas analysis carried out.
HHT
Hi,
Not sure if this is the right place for this but would be grateful of any help! Trying to bleed a Riello burner and I'm seeing loads of different instructions online so not sure whats relevant to my own. Can anyone let me know which part needs loosening from the images below? I think its the second one (side of pump) but want to be sure.
Thanks
Not sure if this is the right place for this but would be grateful of any help! Trying to bleed a Riello burner and I'm seeing loads of different instructions online so not sure whats relevant to my own. Can anyone let me know which part needs loosening from the images below? I think its the second one (side of pump) but want to be sure.
Thanks
Attachments
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
