Rotten joists and studs holding up roof

[bobasd]

no they wouldn't "be better". the 6 x 2's are correct.
the Acrows have already been screwed to the 6 x 2's.

the only user name on here to mention house "collapse" is the OP.

most DIY'ers hire their Acrows not buy them - some hire shops let out various lenth an section steel lintels as well

 

[Ian H]

Yes they would. There would be a single 6” surface pressing against the ceiling rather than 2 x 2” surfaces.

I mentioned collapse to the OP as a joke, same as he mentioned it as a joke.

 

[bobasd]

wrong thats now a timber lintel an it has far more strength on edge than flat. - basic timber framing where
on edge pinned 6 x 2 lintels or even 4 x 2's are used over most openings .you'd lose your job if you laid them flat.

 

[mike42]

Cheers for the advice and interesting discussion about which side the lintel should be on. I can see it would have more strength orientated like a joist but worry it could flip over. As a diyer I'm of course not in a position to know.

Re hiring props - mine cost £20 each. To hire would be over a tenner for a week and that would pressure me. I work slowly (as you can see).

I moved the props around so that the second large prop picks up another joist. I've since realised that they were previously located directly over a jiffy hanger so I might have made it worse. I think I need to make up another pair of 6x2 as the current one isn't long enough when positioned like they are now.8-(

I decided to open up the rest of that wall (its on the left in the "joist location" pic) and as well as more plasterboard gone I took off the sill. I'm bloody glad I did that as it exposed yet more water damage/rot. Everything is now bone dry but it clearly wasn't before I fixed the leak.

I also removed some cladding externally.

The problem I've now got is what to do about the timber on the right as the rot goes right up to the line I've drawn there. I suppose in an ideal world I'd remove the window and then remove and refit everything below the wall plate? I can see the window only has two screws each side but I've never removed a pane before to get to some of those screws and also in winter can see it as a lot of work refitting and levelling. Interesting to see no silicon seems to have been used internally.

I don't know how bad it would be to remove the sill support under the window (its a piece 4x2 that is hardly supported by anything despite appearances) and then cut the right hand timber just under the window. Its about 80-90% of its width there as solid wood and of course it is nailed into the brick wall along its length. I would then fix a new length of 4x2 under it but it wouldn't be a perfect butt joiunt due to 10-15% missing (rotten stuff scraped away).

If I tried to cut that right hand upright timber where it is good at the line, I'm not sure how I would cut it nor if I could get a good fitting timber underneath to support it.

I'm also thinking to replace the window support and replace with a pair of 4x2 on end (losing the middle upright) since one advantage of having to build all this up again, is I was planning to put a geberit concealed frame, space is very tight and putting it inside this stud wall would be ideal.

Apologies for writing so much and thanks for reading.