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Salamander Shower Pump humming and not pumping

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6 Jan 2025
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United Kingdom
I have a Salamander CT Force Universal pump fitted (only a couple of months ago) but it seems to have packed in already. I've returned from a week or so away and when initially turning the water on the pump just makes a humming sound with no water pumping. It now doesn't turn off - when switched on at the mains it constantly humms. It seems like the motor/impellers have seized. Is there any way to resolve this or is the pump knackered? It's actually my second pump which didnt last long either. In fairness, the pump is located under the bath, which is more than 5 meters away from the hot water cylinder and as a result Salamander don't want to know as it invalidated the warranty, but do not want the pump in a babys bedroom where the hot water cylinder is located, so is my only option.

It seems like shower pumps are incredibly unreliable and fragile.

Can anyone recommend what to do next with the pump..? And is it fixable? Thanks
 
Salamander aren't the best we only fit Stuart turner monsoon, fitted to M I.
My own Stuart Turner 4 bar whole house pump has had one reed switch in approaching 20 years
Noise level with cupboard door shut something like been stood next to working fridge/freezer.
 
Does it run at all or just sits there humming when turned off and back on? Only way to check would be to test the capacitor, if that's ok then it's opening it up and check if is seized.

I too wouldn't recommend Salamander but I'm very surprised that even their pumps would fail after only a couple of months.
 
Thanks, yes it just humms when switched on at the mains, so sounds very much like it's seized! I'll look to open it up to investigate.
 
I'm on my second Salamander CT50 - replaced first under warranty - and this one may be failing too. Will be looking for a different manufacturer for next pump.
It's the same symptoms as some describe - some days it starts almost immediately and other days it just buzzes and the motor body gets hot - very hot.
I've seen comments elsewhere about the motor start capacitor being at fault - any electrical people able to comment on that?
 

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