salamander shower pump

Joined
29 Nov 2008
Messages
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Location
Derbyshire
Country
United Kingdom
The twin impeller Salamander pump that has been working perfectly for 3 years has stopped pumping. It just emits a humm when the shower is turned on but the water comes through at low pressure, unpumped.
Is the impeller just jammed and is it possible to free it without disconnecting the water? or do I need a new pump?
Jim
 
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Something is obviously wrong; if it hums it may well be jammed for some reason but if you continue to try & run it, you WILL burn the motor out & then it will be a new pump! You should have isolator valves which will allow you to remove the pump for inspection to see what’s wrong.
 
pumps manufacture are now stating that the hot water supply to the pump must be blended with cold water by a mixing valve to 65 degress c before entering the pump. not doing this voids your warnanty on the product. probably cos pumps are now made of plastic. salmander also insist on the hot supply being pipe from a surry flange fitted on the top of the cylinder so they don't pull air from the hot domestic vent, and that the cold supply is feed straight for a individual tapping from the cold water tank in the attic.
 
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Most of those pumps have a plastic end cover which encloses the impeller.

After taking out the pump you can remove each end cover and will hopefully see whats gone wrong and why its not turning.

Its must likely to have failed irretrievably if its been properly fitted with filters on the inlet to prevent any debris entering the pump.

You might be lucky and find something tiny jamming it but most often the impeller has broken up or something similar.

There are often pump repair kits but these are usually priced to make a repair an uneconomical option.

Tony
 
pumps manufacture are now stating that the hot water supply to the pump must be blended with cold water by a mixing valve to 65 degress c before entering the pump. not doing this voids your warnanty on the product. probably cos pumps are now made of plastic. salmander also insist on the hot supply being pipe from a surry flange fitted on the top of the cylinder so they don't pull air from the hot domestic vent, and that the cold supply is feed straight for a individual tapping from the cold water tank in the attic.
A thermostatic mixer valve is required if there is any chance of the water temp exceeding 65 degrees; the Salamander preference is actually an Essex flange but a Surrey flange will do.
 
No flange, regardless of the county, will prevent the inlet temperature exceeding 65° C if the cylinder stat or immersion heater stat have been set too high.

Tony
 
No flange, regardless of the county, will prevent the inlet temperature exceeding 65° C if the cylinder stat or immersion heater stat have been set too high.

Tony
Your right, that's what the TMV is for.
 
Thankyou all, the impeller was jammed, I forced it round and all is now fine.
jim
 

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