sand/cement vs plasterboard

[Stevecc]

I have a gable wall to plastering the living room. The wall has been stripped back to bare brick. It was originally rendered with sand/cement

I have had some quotes and offered the following choices

1. Plasterboard dot and dab and skim coat
2. Render in sand/cement and skim coat

Or maybe I should plaster it with gypsum base coat and skim coat

Any advice

 

[JohnD]

I prefer option 2

I live in an area where is is a common regional practice.

 

[DiyNutJob]

Plasterboard may give a warmer room since it acts as a second wall, a bit like double glazing.

 

[JohnD]

If you want internal insulation, do it. Not dot and dab

 

[Stevecc]

What other options to "hang" a plasterboard on a bare brick wall apart from dot and dab

 

[JohnD]

Drylining, but this would only make sense if you were adding internal wall insulation.

Which is very worthwhile if you have solid brick walls or can't install CWI.

 

[Wayners]

Why was it taken off?
Damp problem?
More information needed.
It's all about insulation these days.
Insulated board fixed with foam then add a few mechanical fixings then skim. Maybe.

 

[Bouy]

Cavity or solid brick wall

 

[Stevecc]

Thanks for yourt comments

It is a solid brick wall (not cavity) built 1930's

The artex and plaster underneath was removed, above the picture rail all around the room and all over the ceiling. It was removed because artex contained asbestos and work had to be done to support a chimney so artex would have been disturbed. We are now making good.

The rendered wall is intact below the picture rail

There have been some damp issues at the bottom of the wall. There has been some mould at the top of the wall especially around the window bay area which we assume is due to condensation

 

[Notch7]

It is a solid brick wall (not cavity) built 1930's

In which case forget 2 coat plaster - any damp will show.

render + skim - if done with SBR added it will be pretty resistant to damp, however it will transmit cold very well, so condensation is possible.

dot & dab - risk of cold bridging at dabs.

I personally would favour sticking PIR insulation direct to wall, screw 50 x 25 batten flat on the insulation, then fit a VCL and then plasterboard + skim. You can also treat wall, add DPM if you like. It’s worth foil taping the insulation.

By doing that you have a warm wall with no condensation or damp risk. It’s upto you what thickness of insulation, it depends on your interest in thermal efficiency. Even 25mm PIR would eliminate risk of condensation on the internal wall

 

[Wayners]

Sounds like it was lime plaster originally? Gypsum will be a problem if used is my understanding.
Dot and dab may also cause trouble unless you use foam to stick

 

[Stevecc]

Thanks for your replies

What does the VCL do. I understand its a vapour barrier. Does it stop penertraing damp or condenstaion or both.

I guess the original plaster was sand/cement/lime (its at least sand/cement). The original plaster above the picture rail (where we have to replace it) there was no signs of penertrating damp. Only condensation around the window bay area

 

[bsr]

You can buy foil and insulation backed plasterboard and fix directly to the walls with foam.