Satinwood has turned out to be Gloss !!!!! Help

[jstallan]

Hi,

Couple of months ago I painted 2 of the bedroom doors. Both had been dip stripped, so after rubbing down and neutralising with a 50/50 vinegar/water solution I applied a coat of primer. The 2 coats of undercoat followed by a coat of white dulux satinwood (oil based).

Very pleased with the outcome, then a couple of joint cracks in the paneling of the door appeared in one and discoloration mark in the centre of the other door. The mark was probably down to me and WD40 trying to ease the new lock in the door. I thought I'd cleaned it all up - obviously not.

So 2 weekends ago I filled the cracks and applied a thin coat of PVA (watered down) over the mark to hopefully seal matters. This weekend I painted the affected areas. This morning the areas now look like I've painted them in gloss !!!

If I've checked the label on the paint tin once, I've checked it 30 times - it's definitely White dulux satinwood (oil based). Any ideas why this has happened or what I should do to fix it ?

Regards,
John

 

[joe-90]

PVA and paint never mix.

You'll have to go over the whole door again and bear in mind that Dulux Satinwood looks like gloss for weeks before it tones down. Looks good eventually though.

 

[jstallan]

Would it be worth leaving it for a week or 2 to see what happens ?

what would happen if I painted just the affected area again in satinwood?

Would I have to undercoat it again ?

 

[JohnD]

you are going to have to rub it down smooth to remove the paint that has been damaged by PVA or oil

it will be easier after it has hardened for a few weeks.

 

[opps]

It does sound like you might not have a problem at all.

From your post you seem happy bar the sheen level

The reduction in solvents and the increase in paint solids (2010 VOC) means that paints take much longer to dry than they did previously.

The second coat of eggshell will take longer to dry than the first. Oilbased paints take weeks to cure.

Hopefully the sheen level will taper off as it dries.

Hence the advice that you leave the door for a couple of weeks.

 

[Robbie uk]

If the doors were dipped then this will have involved caustic soda, the doors should have been primed with something like Zinsser BIN to seal it prior to undecoating and top coating. PVA should never ever be used near oil based paints or on woodwork.

 

[jstallan]

Thanks to all for their comments.

Plan of action is to do nothing over the next week or 2 and see if the sheen dies down. If it doesn't, I'll rub down the whole door again, give it a light undercoat (so it's all one surface) and then satinwood it.

The 'dipper' bloke assured me that the neutralising I carried out is fine - there is nothing wrong with the door that had the cracks in it.

 

[grant.mackay]

I've always understood that Satinwood acted as it's own undercoat. i.e. instead od one coat u/coat, one coat gloss. You just give it two coats Satinwood. Not unless this has changed in the last two or three years when i've been out of the game.

 

[joe-90]

It doesn't sand like undercoat does so when you have two levels you want to sand to one - it's no good.

 

[grant.mackay]

You can imagine how confusing it gets, when I started there wasn't even emulsion, or rollers, only rollers I ever saw were in films, think they went alongside paint pads, something the amateur used. Then due to health issues, i'm forced not to work for the best part of 3 years and at 64, thinking i'll never be back, now there's all this stuff about emissions and once again the paint has changed. Had been using Purdy for water based but among you younger guys, what's the best brush for oil based? Don't say Perfection, they take ages to wear down to length that's comfortable to handle.

 

[opps]

Hi Grant

Bar the pva (i would have used shellac spray to stain block) I don't see that you have done anything wrong.

If sanding back the primer gave you a flat finish then applying satinwood straight over the top is fine. You are correct that it does not need undercoat.

I would have sanded between coats with 220g silicone carbide and then applied the final coat.

In the brief period that you have been a way the biggest change has been the reduction in solvents used in the paints, especially oilbased.

This really has massively increased drying times. Unless I use additives I find that the paint is still tacky the next day. Infact I now use 3 different additives whereas perviously I only used one.

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1725984#1725984

With regard to brushes I use synthetic for both oil and water paints. Purdys are good, Wooster Ultra Pro are better but the latter are not sold in multipacks.

I want a brush that minimises tramlines, retains its shape, doesn't need breaking in and never loses hairs.

 

[jstallan]

An update...

Currently approaching 2 weeks since I painted the door and while it's not 100% right, the gloss effect has definately started to reduce to a sheen finish.

I spoke to the local dulux decorator centre this week who suggested giving it 3 weeks to settle.

I think I'll end up giving the door a complete coat, following a light sand, next year.

 

[joe-90]

My doors took at least 6 weeks to dull down. Nice now though.

 

[grant.mackay]

My doors took at least 6 weeks to dull down. Nice now though.

How many coats of Satincoat did you give them?

 

[joe-90]

2.