Satinwood Paint

[opps]

What do you do to stop the Sprig from fraying outwards when drying? Only my Sprig does it, but my regular Monarch Elite XL's don't suffer from this.

I don't have a problem with substantial fraying.

With respect, it may be a function of the way the you wash and dry your brush.

I start off by holding the brush under a tap. If the water based paint has started to cling to the bristles, I gently rub the long side of the brush against the palm of my hand. I do both sides and rinse the brush again to ensure that the clingy paint has been dislodged.

I then fill up the basin with warm water and gently push the brush up and down (at an angle so that the bristles bend uniformly in the same direction) until the water coming out of the brush is clean, often, that requires a number of basin water changes. I don't stab the brush in the water, I bend the bristles front to back, along the length rather than side to side.

When removing the excess water from the brush, I take it outside and flick it along the thin side, in both directions (rather than the long side). I then use my hand to pull the bristles flat. I will from time to time, leave it sitting on a radiator to dry but I only leave the wooden handle on the rad. I don't want direct heat to dry it.

Years ago, I purchased a spinning tool to remove the excess water from brushes. That seriously splayed bushes...

 

[Wayners]

Just bang brush on end of foot (shoe) to dry. Throws water out

 

[Millwright]

That is pretty much what I do. I also use the Purdy brush comb which really helps. Once I dip it in water before painting again, the bristles do go back to how they should do. In the past with other brushes I'd dry them with a rubber band around the bristles, but Purdy do say not to do that.

 

[Millwright]

I just tried to brush on some Aqua Guard onto my loft hatch, it's had some nasty reaction, just started bubbling and pulling - so I've stopped, tomorrow I'll sand it back and think of what to do.

It was previously painted with oil based paint, sanded down and had two coats of Joncryl, exactly as I've done my skirting boards which are absolutely fine. I wonder what caused it to bubble and pull on the hatch? Hatch is off and being painted flat.

 

[Millwright]

Did a door frame after, paint pulled, curtained, pulled. Strange, very strange. I'll have to sand that back and start again.

Might go back to the Dulux if that happens again.

 

[Wayners]

Re loft hatch @Millwright

Get yellow stripe 4 Inch roller. Sold under different brands. Screwfix sell. White with yellow stripe though. They have a short nap vs long nap.
Mask hinges.
Roll on paint. I don't use a brush if I can avoid.
Leave. Even if it looks heavy when applied just leave. It will flatten back.
Other option is to roll on then top off in one direction with a brush.
Loft hatch should only take 2 mins to do. You need paint to keep wet and flowing. Get plenty on as most apply too thinly and keep brushing when it starts to skin over.

Re bubbles.

If old gloss is not stuck on well get it off. Duck tape applied then pulled off will remove old gloss or scrape off.
.
.

 

[Millwright]

Not confident at the moment to try and roll it on.

What I'm going to do is park the loft hatch for now and concentrate on the door frame, so I'll sand the frame back down today, but then I'll try the Aqua water based undercoat and see if that aids flow. Some research online suggests it can aid flow and prevent the dragging? We'll see!

 

[robbo83]

Could try an oil based primer like Cover Stain?

 

[Millwright]

Don't fancy using anything oil based, I shouldn't have to, this should just go straight on.

I've sanded the frame back and will put some Aqua undercoat on and see how it goes from there.

Strange as I did another room which had old oil based paint on it, all I did was flat it back and it went on fine with no grumbles.

 

[Millwright]

I've flat the frame back and popped out to get the Aqua Undercoat. It applies wonderfully, smooth lovely flow. It's drying off and already looking very good. If only they can make a top coat which flows as nice. We'll see what the AG goes on like when I can.

 

[Millwright]

Ok, AG went on fine today over the UC, really I was just trying the UC out of curiosity, it applied and went on just as it usually did for me before, so no idea what happened yesterday.

Did a small section of skirting, went on fine, came back later, it curtained/ran, too late to brush it out. So over all verdict is that it's no better than the Dulux Diamond, the finish isn't any better. Will look for something else to use for the next time as I can't say it's wowed me at all.

 

[Millwright]

Back to painting the house today. Revisited the loft hatch after sanding it back last week and undercoating it, two inch Sprig it painted ok. Was some pulling which again was odd, but dipping the brush in water helped.

Did some of the primed woodwork in the hallway in the undercoat and to be honest, the undercoat looks so good that I'm seriously temped to just do another undercoat and leave it at that seeing as I find the AG so hard to work with. It is good paint, it is, but I just don't find it easy to work with.

 

[Millwright]

I've been experimenting with a few things and the AG.

Ok, so what I've found is it performs best with the Aqua undercoat, it flows and spreads a lot better on top of the UC rather than straight onto anything else. As for the pulling, I think perhaps it can pick up on a primed only surface, then start pulling, as it happened again ever so slightly today when going onto a surface without the UC.

As for runs, thinking that I wasn't putting too much on, I've put even less on, an incredibly thin coat and it covered ok and didn't run, but was almost to the degree where very little paint was going on, but it spread out and covered ok.

There is certainly a difference in the finish with the undercoat, it's very noticeable, so always use that.

Second coat goes on top of AG and flows well.

I could really do with another 1" Sprig, thought but cannot find anyone with one in stock.