Scantronic 9448+ - removing sensors? How?

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We're having our walls plastered & the plasterer would like the sensor in the living room to be removed so they can do a proper job. We'd also like it removed so we could remove the wallpaper & then re-wallpaper at some point.

A co-worker told me about the time they moved in to their house & tried removing their sensors for this (not sure of their system). They said it turned out to have springs & ball bearings which went everywhere & set the alarm off.

Obviously not something we want.

How do we remove these things properly? (& then re-fit?)
 
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You have a couple of options... If you have the engineer's/installer's code, put the panel in installer mode by pressing 0<enter><code> and open the panel. You can then disconnect the 12v and zone connections to the detectors and take the detectors off the wall.

If you don't have the code, you'll end up making noise. Open the panel - this will generate a tamper and the internal speaker will sound. Type your code in to shut it up. Beware of the live mains in the panel! ;) Disconnect the global tamper and put your code in again to shut it up... Now you can disconnect the 12V to the PIRs and the zone connections and remove the PIRs.

Leave the PIR cables hanging out of the wall/ceiling and ask your plasterer to plaster round them. If you're lucky, he won't slice them off with a sharp steel float!

When it's all done, refit the PIRs to the wall and connect the cable. Then return to the panel and reconnect there. Finally close the lid and take it out of installer mode (99<enter>) or reset it with your code.

Note: You won't be able to use your alarm while the work is in progress.
 
Thanks for the response. Just a few things though...

We have the code we use to set/disable the alarm.
There's also the other code in the manual (can't remember what that's for) which is 0000 by default.

If the engineer's code isn't that then we don't have it.

Though i do remember asking about this unit on another forum one time as the alarm wouldn't set & i just remembered this response. I never did find out whether they were an installer & that was the basis of their reply, but this was it...

It sounds like the board has gone back to defaults.

If you are sure there are only 3 zones


1 Press 0 enter then 7890 (default engineers code) this get you into engineering
2 Press 15 enter this will show zones not used (the default is all zones on)
3 Press 4,5,6 these lights will go out
4 Press enter then 99 enter to exit engineering



Then try setting the system
[/quote]

Wonder if the installer would've changed the code though. Do they generally do that?

You have a couple of options... If you have the engineer's/installer's code, put the panel in installer mode by pressing 0<enter><code> and open the panel. You can then disconnect the 12v and zone connections
Here's my first bit of dimness - how would i do that?

Open the panel - this will generate a tamper and the internal speaker will sound.
How loud is this? Is this as loud as when the alarm sounds off proper, as in the entire street will hear it, or is it not that bad?
Beware of the live mains in the panel! ;)
Having not yet opened it up, is this obvious?
Disconnect the global tamper
Again, how would you do this?
Now you can disconnect the 12V to the PIRs and the zone connections
As earlier, how would you do this?





What if we try that default engineers code & it turns out to be wrong? Will the alarm sound off?

Finally, we don't know who installed this system as it was in place when we bought the house. What are we looking for in say the Yellow Pages to get someone out to do this (just in case we can't) & what are they likely to charge?
 
Oh & assuming that default engineers code doesn't work & then assuming it does sound off loud enough for the entire street to hear....

...would entering our normal code just deactivate the noise or would we then need to input some other sequence before we could deactivate it? I say the last thing we want is for it to sound off, but the last thing is actually being unable to make it be quiet :oops:
 
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If your not that confident about doing this , get a local company to do this for you ! They will probably charge you for two visits one to disconnect and one to reconnect, would guess around £120 inc vat for both depending on where you live.
 
Thanks.

Ever the worrier, the Mrs has told me pretty sternly to listen to her in future - check the manual.

The previous owners left us an instructions manual but also the installers manual, which has the engineers code on it.

So as per with me - worrying too early.
 
If your not that confident about doing this , get a local company to do this for you ! They will probably charge you for two visits one to disconnect and one to reconnect, would guess around £120 inc vat for both depending on where you live.
Could not agree more, much better to be safe than sorry.
 
Well the engineers code worked & the panel came off. Just not too sure about taking these wires out & how you do it.

We know which zone is for the living room, so i suppose it's just a case of taking it out, but how to do it properly?



Am taking it that that fuse at the bottom just above the 12v needs to come out (the one running vertical)?

We see the connectors in the backwards L shape on the right & we know which is the right one, but do you just unscrew & pull out & leave it at that, job done?




I did wonder about turning off the mains electricity & then pulling the battery (if it's that simple) but didn't know if turning the mains back on would cause the alarm to go off.


So is it just a case of unscrew & pop the appropriate wire out & leave it at that?
 
1) Where do you pick those things up from
2) How do you re-fit? (I'm not at the house until tomorrow night so can't see how it's connected in & figure it's best to ask in advance in case i run into bother).


Anyway, the Mrs had at it today & disconnected it all fine enough. Got the sensor off but just left it hanging there (main wire still connected to the rear of the sensor).



There was 1 thing about this unit i wanted to know though .....

99% the time we enter our code & all is good. Beep-beep-beep & it activates.

Twice though, we've entered the code (& yes it's been entered correctly as after the first time this happened i've made a point of slowly entering the code properly)... & it's just done 1 continuous beep.

The first time i didn't know what was going on or why it wasn't beep-beep-beep so i stood there pressing cancel & enter buttons & anything. Then the alarm sounded. I crapped myself & turned the mains electricity off as (at that point) i didn't know what to do.

Why does it randomly do 1 continuous beep?
 
Constant tone means all zones are clear beep beep means a zone is open so if you are in a area with a pir when you set the alarm, it will be intermittent then constant when clear......
 
The 12V supply to the PIRs is at the top of the board - the bundle of black (negative) and red (positive) wires. To disconnect them, slacken the screw terminals (about 3 turns) and pull the wires out.

The tamper circuit is the yellow wires below.

The zone connections are mostly green and white and are marked on the PCB Z1, Z2, etc..

When you've disconnected the wires, put a bit of tape over the end to stop them from touching something that they shouldn't...

The 240V mains comes into the panel at the back on the flat, grey twin and earth cable. It is connected to the black wires of the transformer (in the white box thing) by the 3-way choc block. This is all of the dangerous stuff. Everything else is low voltage and will not hurt you but you could easily damage the equipment if you short circuit the wrong thing.

I can't remember whether the AUX 12V fuse also power the bell. If it does, and your bell's battery is still ok (possible, but unlikely), the bell will sound if you remove the fuse and you will "wake the entire street". It will stop as soon as you replace the fuse, so you could try it quickly if you want.

If you're not confident in working on a live panel, and you want to power it down, you will need to disconnect the battery in the bell before disconnecting the panel battery and removing the fuse from the spur above the panel. If you don't, the bell will ring for upto 20mins and then stop (hopefully!). If it's a really old bell, it could sound until it's battery runs flat. If you do power it all down, it will go off when you power it back up (inside only, not the bell). Just put your code in to shut it up, close the box and put the code in to reset it. It should not lose any of the programming.
 
Constant tone means all zones are clear beep beep means a zone is open so if you are in a area with a pir when you set the alarm, it will be intermittent then constant when clear......
That's an interesting one...

...because when it was a constant tone, after about 20-30 second, the alarm started sounding. I don't mean the internal noise in the control box, but the one that would wake everyone on the street up.

Which from what you're saying, it shouldn't have happened because all zones should've been clear.

Then there's the question of why it did that - entering the code should activate it surely? Like it does every other time, except on two occasions it for some reason just didn't.
 
I'll bet a pound to a pinch of poo that you started a bell test. That would be 4<enter><code> - does your code end in a 4? Did you try and enter it twice?
 
I'll bet a pound to a pinch of poo that you started a bell test. That would be 4<enter><code> - does your code end in a 4? Did you try and enter it twice?
Nope the code doesn't end in 4 & it didn't before we changed it either. I also know i've not entered that sequence before. I've been weary of setting the alarm off so i've always been careful what i've entered - making sure i don't whack in the code too quickly & hitting something wrong.

After the first time yes, i found out that entering the code in again is all it took to deactivate. Still not sure why the continuous beep though.

When it happens now we just enter the code again & don't bother with the alarm. Not very secure i know but we've no idea how to activate it in that instance. Try again the next day & it works.
 

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