Schematic of unvented system

[ncejudd]

Could any one help with this one,

1) im changing my CH system to a sealed/unvented system from a conventional tank system. could someone post me a drawing/schematic of a sealed system denoting pressure valves/pumps/boiler/rads etc

2) im also changing my HW system to a sealed/unvented system from a conventional tank system. could someone post me a drawing/schematic of a sealed system denoting pressure valves/pumps/boiler/cylinder etc

many thanks in anticipation,

cheers

 

[Onetap]

1) im changing my CH system to a sealed/unvented system from a conventional tank system. could someone post me a drawing/schematic of a sealed system denoting pressure valves/pumps/boiler/rads etc

2) im also changing my HW system to a sealed/unvented system from a conventional tank system. could someone post me a drawing/schematic of a sealed system denoting pressure valves/pumps/boiler/cylinder etc

You should have completed the (1 or 2 day) training system to install an unvented hot water storage system over 15 litres capacity. They could cause a serious steam explosion if installed incorrectly and the safety devices are disabled. You also need to notify the local authority and they'll charge for an inspection if you're not registered.

You'll have problems if you want to sell the property and don't have the relevant paperwork.

 

[BigBurner]

An unvented cylinder requires an approved fitter and an annual service which costs. Keep that in mind.

Look at:
http://www.advanceappliances.co.uk/gas_or_oil_thermal_store_systems.html

No service and can be DIYed.

Also look at a Broag system boiler.
http://www.avantapuls.co.uk

 

[ncejudd]

Thanks Big burner, i'm making the asumption the pressure relife valve is required to be tested anualy ?

 

[Onetap]

Thanks Big burner, i'm making the asumption the pressure relife valve is required to be tested anualy ?

BigBurner (or Dr Drivel as we all fondly call him) is plugging his favoured, though eccentric, recommendation. He hasn't mentioned that the high temperatures that thermal stores operate at causes a lot of limescale in hard water areas; plumbers fondly call them 'sludge-buckets'.

They're also pretty pointless with a condensing boiler; in fact they cause a huge loss of efficiency.

You'll find schematics of unvented water heaters in the manufacturer's installation & maintenance manuals which are available on-line. If you're determined to self-install, it would be a sensible investment to do the training course. You won't take it all in from the manual.

 

[BigBurner]

Thanks Big burner, i'm making the asumption the pressure relife valve is required to be tested anualy ?

The whole cylinder control system has to be tested annually by an approved fitter.

 

[BigBurner]

Thanks Big burner, i'm making the asumption the pressure relife valve is required to be tested anualy ?

BigBurner (or Dr Drivel as we all fondly call him)

Mr Onetap you spouted lots of drivel on the other thread. Shocking.

is plugging his favoured, though eccentric, recommendation. He hasn't mentioned that the high temperatures that thermal stores operate at causes a lot of limescale in hard water areas; plumbers fondly call them 'sludge-buckets'.

Heat banks have removable plate heat exchangers - removing and descaling is a DIY job. What do plumbers know apart from drains. Look at some of them on here.

They're also pretty pointless with a condensing boiler; in fact they cause a huge loss of efficiency.

You haven't a clue about thermal storage. Ask gordonspants on the "Heat Banks" thread. You are so pathetic. Boilers with OpenTherm integral weather compensation connected directly onto heat banks/thermal stores are he most efficient you will get and no boiler cycling. The Broag has this. On the CH side have a Smart pump and TRVs all around - no wall stat. Two or more CH zones can be run off it too. Now you know.

Unvented cylinders sell because of ignorance by installers and also they get an annual service charge from one.

Look at this thread. Not one of these posters has the remotest idea of what they are on about. The distinct lack of knowledge regarding thermal systems and thermal layers is disturbing:
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15367

Look at this thread "Heat Banks" on how an integrated heat bank is put together. An amateur DIYer figured it out and bought one to order. He put to shame the so-called professionals on this forum, even doing so tests on how it performed, noting return temperatures that promoted extensive condensing efficiencies, which was impressive (Not to be disparaging, however it could be improved even further that is how efficient they can be, however a great result):
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=137289
They can also be purchased off-the-shelf.

"DHW Only" Heat banks knock cobs off unvented cylinders.
Look at:
http://www.heatweb.com/products/cylinders/heatbank/pandora.html

An integrated heat bank (DHW & CH), as Gordonspants fitted, is different and cannot be directly compared to an unvented cylinder it is so much more advanced.

 

[Onetap]

Look at this thread "Heat Banks" on how an integrated heat bank is put together. An amateur DIYer figured it out and bought one to order. He put to shame the so-called professionals on this forum, even doing so tests on how it performed, noting return temperatures that promoted extensive condensing efficiencies, which was impressive (Not to be disparaging, however it could be improved even further that is how efficient they can be, however a great result):
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=137289

The main difference being that the poster in that thread wanted to add other heat sources (wood burner, ground source heat pump, whatever). So a thermal store would be advisable for him.


The OP in this current thread hasn't mentioned a wood burner and if he follows your advice will find himself stuck with a useless, white-elephant of a thermal store. I seem to recall you posted a link to a Viessmann guide which advised against primary/secondary systems in conjunction with thermal stores; a thermal store is such a primary/secondary system.

 

[BigBurner]

Look at this thread "Heat Banks" on how an integrated heat bank is put together. An amateur DIYer figured it out and bought one to order. He put to shame the so-called professionals on this forum, even doing so tests on how it performed, noting return temperatures that promoted extensive condensing efficiencies, which was impressive (Not to be disparaging, however it could be improved even further that is how efficient they can be, however a great result):
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=137289

The main difference being that the poster in that thread wanted to add other heat sources (wood burner, ground source heat pump, whatever). So a thermal store would be advisable for him.

They are nor connected and the system is super efficient - and be improved even further.

The OP in this current thread hasn't mentioned a wood burner and if he follows your advice will find himself stuck with a useless, white-elephant of a thermal store.

It is clear you haven't much of a clue about thermal storage and thermal layering.

I seem to recall you posted a link to a Viessmann guide which advised against primary/secondary systems in conjunction with thermal stores; a thermal store is such a primary/secondary system.

If you heat a store by a coil and then use a either a coil or plate heat X to take off DHW, this is inefficient. Direct heating is the way. Which would be obvious to an experienced heating engineer.