Heat Banks

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Hi, my first post.... I have been reading.... and reading..... about thermal stores, heat banks and unvented cylinders.

I would like - good hot water flow, solar capability and eventually a wood burner at a later date. This kind of pushes the unvented idea to the sidelines - running the radiators off solar and free wood sounds too good to be true.

I already have - a sealed system condensing gas boiler, radiators and no loft (flat roof) for addition of feed and return tanks - so no DPS/Heatweb stores as they're open vented I think?
Insulation to majority of house is 2007-standard or better.
Have heat recovery system fitted, quite a few oversized rads, plus double glazing/fairly good airtightness.
We plan a shower with body jets (not fitted yet), already have another 'normal' shower, one bath and 4 bedrooms - so fairly standard requirements until the kids are big enough to sulk in the bathroom for hours at a time...

My plumber and I have decided a pressurised heat bank will work with the sealed system boiler and sealed system rads, allowing solar/wood burning input to space heating as well as water heating.
A large accumulator will be used to assist cold water supply to the heat bank, as it can vary through the day.
A plate heat exchanger is essential, in-cylinder coils don't appear to work as well at high flow rates/multiple drawoffs.
We are considering two cylinder stats in series, one near the top, one near the bottom of the store, to make the boiler burn longer and harder, initially from lower temperatures thus condensing for longer. I'm aware a 70 degC store will not allow the boiler to condense for 100% of the time, but a 60 degC store may not do the hot water well enough, so I'm prepared for that trade-off in gas efficiency in return for low cost heating via solar/wood burning.
The boiler needs to be directly linked to the store (no coil) to allow buffering and sub-dewpoint return temps for as long as possible.

The NuHeat EnergyMaster 300 litre solar appears right for what I want -

Clicky

It is designed specifically for underfloor heating, so the tappings for the space heating flow and return may be a bit low down on the cylinder for radiators, but we reckon we'll get away with it due to good house insulation levels and large rads, it has a plate heat X (albeit an internal one) which gives 40 l/min flowrate (way more than what is required) into the TMV, a solar coil and direct buffering for the boiler and rads, running at about 1.5 bar pressure as any sealed system does.
If the internal plate ever goes belly up, an external plate could be added easily (I am not in a hard water area) using the existing tappings.
A Magnaclean is part of the plan, on the radiator return into the store.
The woodburner is tricky, and will need it's own heat exchanger and pump inputting via the solar coil or boiler tappings, so the burner can stay vented and safe - I haven't discussed this point with the plumber yet.

Any thoughts from anyone? The store is coming in at around £1600 including the shunt pump, flow switch, TMV etc, so it's maybe double the kit cost of an unvented cylinder, install cost is the same, and I accept hot water *may* not be as good as an unvented, the setup may need tweaking and some tlc along the way, but for potential cheap energy input we think it's worth it?

Or am I certifiably insane for deviating from the unvented solar cylinder?
 
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Your wood burner will have to be open vented so you'll need an expansion tank some where if and when you add that.
 
Hi, my first post.... I have been reading.... and reading..... about thermal stores, heat banks and unvented cylinders.

I would like - good hot water flow, solar capability and eventually a wood burner at a later date. This kind of pushes the unvented idea to the sidelines - running the radiators off solar and free wood sounds too good to be true.

I already have - a sealed system condensing gas boiler, radiators and no loft (flat roof) for addition of feed and return tanks - so no DPS/Heatweb stores as they're open vented I think?

DPS will make any type of store.

Insulation to majority of house is 2007-standard or better.
Have heat recovery system fitted, quite a few oversized rads, plus double glazing/fairly good airtightness.
We plan a shower with body jets (not fitted yet), already have another 'normal' shower, one bath and 4 bedrooms - so fairly standard requirements until the kids are big enough to sulk in the bathroom for hours at a time...

My plumber and I have decided a pressurised heat bank will work with the sealed system boiler and sealed system rads, allowing solar/wood burning input to space heating as well as water heating.
A large accumulator will be used to assist cold water supply to the heat bank, as it can vary through the day.
A plate heat exchanger is essential, in-cylinder coils don't appear to work as well at high flow rates/multiple drawoffs.
We are considering two cylinder stats in series, one near the top, one near the bottom of the store, to make the boiler burn longer and harder, initially from lower temperatures thus condensing for longer. I'm aware a 70 degC store will not allow the boiler to condense for 100% of the time, but a 60 degC store may not do the hot water well enough,

If a heat bank (plate heat exchanger DHW) is heated directly, the boiler condenses 80% of the reheat time even when the store temp is set to 80C, even more when set lower. The bottom of the store gets very cool.

so I'm prepared for that trade-off in gas efficiency in return for low cost heating via solar/wood burning.
The boiler needs to be directly linked to the store (no coil) to allow buffering and sub-dewpoint return temps for as long as possible.

Great idea.

The NuHeat EnergyMaster 300 litre solar appears right for what I want -

Clicky

They usually don't sell it unless you buy UFH from them. Try. The supplier is Advanced Appliances Ltd.

It is designed specifically for underfloor heating, so the tappings for the space heating flow and return may be a bit low down on the cylinder for radiators, but we reckon we'll get away with it due to good house insulation levels and large rads,

drilling out the pipe stop in a compression joint and inserting a bent 90 degree piece of pipe will bring the take off higher.

it has a plate heat X (albeit an internal one) which gives 40 l/min flowrate (way more than what is required) into the TMV, a solar coil and direct buffering for the boiler and rads, running at about 1.5 bar pressure as any sealed system does.
If the internal plate ever goes belly up, an external plate could be added easily (I am not in a hard water area) using the existing tappings.
A Magnaclean is part of the plan, on the radiator return into the store.
The woodburner is tricky, and will need it's own heat exchanger and pump inputting via the solar coil or boiler tappings, so the burner can stay vented and safe - I haven't discussed this point with the plumber yet.

A plate heat X may do the trick.

Any thoughts from anyone? The store is coming in at around £1600 including the shunt pump, flow switch, TMV etc, so it's maybe double the kit cost of an unvented cylinder, install cost is the same, and I accept hot water *may* not be as good as an unvented,

It should be better as no pressure reducing valve. Look at what it gives and price up an unvented to give the same. The Nu-heat is stainless steel too. Try http://www.copperform.co.uk. They may make a SSteel cylinder to suite. You will have to build the heat bank yourself, like installing the plate, pump, etc.

Try looking a cheap S Steel unvented cylinder, take off the pressure stuff and build your own heat bank. You could use the coil for solar of the woodburner. May be cheaper.

the setup may need tweaking and some tlc along the way, but for potential cheap energy input we think it's worth it?

Or am I certifiably insane for deviating from the unvented solar cylinder?

Great idea.

BTW, you could put a weather compensator on the CH circuit. Have 3-way mixing valve on the CH return to ensure very low return temps, enhancing condensing operation.

These are reasonably priced weather compensators:
http://www.syxthsense.com/ecommerce2/cart1.php

The 3-way valves and 24v actuator may be cheaper from:
http://www.sontay.com/

Then put a Smart pump on the CH loop and TRVs all around with no wall stat.
 
A lot to think about! Many thanks for the input.

I have considered an unvented cylinder as a base for a thermal store - a twin coil solar cylinder with the top coil to the rads seems sensible, it's the boiler flow/return AND the flow/return for a plate heat X that get tricky. The heat X flow would be off the top (hot water) 22mm outlet, the return could be via the prv tapping, but it's usually only 15mm... so wouldn't work?
The boiler return would be from the bottom (water inlet) 22mm tapping, and the boiler feed would then be... too difficult for me! Can it go in the top (original hot water out) together with the plate X feed?

Is is possible to add tappings to a stainless cylinder easily - a custom-made cylinder would be the best option, but ££££ extra?

I would also need to source a flowswitch, and specify and find a plate heat exchanger. Do you know who is best for this kind of stuff - it's in the industrial/processing field I would have thought, rather than the average plumbers merchant?

The mixing valve and weather comp for the rads is a great idea - I'm already looking at the links you have provided.

I'd like to keep the roomstat, as it'll fire the circ pump up for the rad system, based on a room temperature rather than relying on a timer/programmer. Already have 90% TRVs, so a smart pump may be a good idea as we'll be fitting a new circ pump anyway.

I'm assuming my two cylinder stats in series may work, or would this mean the hot water flow being affected when store temp has dropped to almost "calling for the boiler" temp?

I want to keep costs down, so the 'de-unvented' unvented cyl is ideal but really don't want to keep brainstorming my plumber with crazy ideas - the interweb seems the best place to vent my ramblings!

Thankyou again :)
 
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I have considered an unvented cylinder as a base for a thermal store - a twin coil solar cylinder with the top coil to the rads seems sensible, it's the boiler flow/return AND the flow/return for a plate heat X that get tricky. The heat X flow would be off the top (hot water) 22mm outlet, the return could be via the prv tapping, but it's usually only 15mm... so wouldn't work?
The boiler return would be from the bottom (water inlet) 22mm tapping, and the boiler feed would then be... too difficult for me! Can it go in the top (original hot water out) together with the plate X feed?

Surrey flanges convert one tapping into two tappings.

Is is possible to add tappings to a stainless cylinder easily - a custom-made cylinder would be the best option, but ££££ extra?

Extra tapping are usually quite cheap - about £5 to 10 a tapping.

Consider a vented stainless steel cylinder . Get one near to your specification and get extra tappings inserted at the factory.

You could have two coils. One for the solid fuel and one for solar panels.

Many of these vented cylinders are rated at 4 to 5 bar pressure 0 tested to 10 bar. Suitable for a pressurised heat bank system. Make sure you have two pressure discharge valves rated at 3 bar if you pressurise it.

I would also need
to source a flowswitch, and specify and find a plate heat exchanger. Do you know who is best for this kind of stuff - it's in the industrial/processing field I would have thought, rather than the average plumbers merchant?

Plate heat exchangers? A quick Google and:
http://www.keeptheheaton.com/acatalog/Gledhill_Boilermate_Spares.html
£88.52 + VAT. I have seen them cheaper.

Farnell will supply the flow switch
http://www.farnell.co.uk
Farnell number: 1006771 with 22mm compression joints.

Flow Switch, makers site: The FS06 (check if correct)
http://www.gentechsensors.com/productTemplate.asp?ProdId=113
This flow switch is about the best - very good.

The mixing valve and weather comp for the rads is a great idea - I'm already looking at the links you have provided.

I'd like to keep the roomstat, as it'll fire the circ pump up for the rad system, based on a room temperature rather than relying on a timer/programmer. Already have 90% TRVs, so a smart pump may be a good idea as we'll be fitting a new circ pump anyway.

A Smart pump and TRVs all around gives temp control in every room and no central control room stat to interrupt. The weather compensator I linked to can have a stat. You can TRVs all around and a room stat too to tel the controller the buildings is up to temp, then it drop the flow temp and even lower return temps to the store.

Sensing the CH return pipe back to the store will give very low return temps for condensing.

I'm assuming my two cylinder stats in series may work, or would this mean the hot water flow being affected when store temp has dropped to almost "calling for the boiler" temp?

You need to use a relay to get them to work. The DPS site explains the circuitry. Set up right it will not deprive you of DHW. Plate heat exchangers are so efficient they can drop primary (store) water 60C. So to get 55C out of the DHW tap only around 65C temp is needed in the store.

I want to keep costs down, so the 'de-unvented' unvented cyl is ideal but really don't want to keep brainstorming my plumber with crazy ideas - the interweb seems the best place to vent my ramblings!

Yes. Get the ideas right from here and then draw it out and write it down. Then put it to him. You will find it is all new to him as well.
 
- a twin coil solar cylinder with the top coil to the rads seems sensible,

Thankyou again :)

I don't think they are designed for this type of application. :(
Using the coil will most likely result in a much slower re-heat of the rads from cold in comparison to direct from the boiler or thermal store.
 
- a twin coil solar cylinder with the top coil to the rads seems sensible,

Thankyou again :)

I don't think they are designed for this type of application. :(
Using the coil will most likely result in a much slower re-heat of the rads from cold in comparison to direct from the boiler or thermal store.

You are generally right. But! It depends on the size of the coil. It may easily heat the rads. Heating the rads directly from the boiler destroys one of the many benefits of thermal stores - CH buffering.
 
OK, we now have the solution. And I must say how refreshing it is to see a thread on thermal stores that hasn’t degenerated into a slanging match… yet :)

If it wasn't for wanting to run the space heating as well as the hot water from free* energy, I'd be showering from an unvented cylinder by now.

*free = subject to installation costs, equipment costs, vat, petrol for the chainsaw etc

DPS said they don't do pressurised thermal stores, and looking at their prices I'm kind of glad. Copperform also don’t do them, but Advance Appliances do.

Advance Appliances can make me a 300 litre stainless cylinder with two coils (one at bottom for solar, one just up from that for a possible vented woodburner input), enough tappings for direct/buffered boiler and space heating connections (no coils), and an external plate heat exchanger with Grundfos 25/55 shunt pump that'll give 30 litres a minute at 45 degC rise based on store temp of 70/75 degC - more than enough for two showers hopefully.

Boiler tappings are right at the top and bottom, so condensing should be possible for nearly all of each burn, rad flow/return are slightly higher up than the Nuheat (which is meant for cooler ufh), so space heating should be fine – we have close to 20 rads, so I think a coil in an unvented cylinder may have struggled feeding the radiators.

One problem I have read about is boiler firing for five minutes, possibly when cold water happens to momentarily flow across the cylinder stat – so we will fit two sensor pocket type stats in series (note no relay is needed), so both need to be open circuit or both closed circuit to switch the boiler on/off.

Could’ve done an unvented twin coil cylinder with Surrey flanges to get enough tappings as suggested, but with what Advance have come up with, there’s not a great deal of £££ in it when the heat exchanger etc are taken into account, and this is all lots cheaper than the Nuheat mentioned earlier. All the tappings are in the right place, there are enough sensor pockets for solar and so on. Add in solar and wood input, and I reckon it's a sensible choice - but only because we aren't planning on ever moving house again.

Thanks all, there’s a four week lead time on the custom cylinder but I will post again when it’s all up and running/leaking/not working ;)
 
Does the Advance Appliances supply the external plate heat exchanger in the package?

Do they have have a plate "inside" some stores?

You can add another plate if you need more flowrate. Try that with a coil or unvented cylinder.

Is this S steel?

Are they installing spreaders inside? Proper spreaders will prevent the 5 minute firing of the boiler. Where did you read about this? You can make your own spreaders by drilling out pipe stops on compression fittings and running pipe right though. Solder in internal stop ends and drill the pipe.

Best of luck.
 
I must say how refreshing it is to see a thread on thermal stores that hasn’t degenerated into a slanging match… yet :)

How refreshing indeed, though the style of the thread looks suspiciously like WS/DD/BB/RHG having another exchange of cordial views with himself.
 
You may want to get Advance Appliances to insert some new cyl stat probe points in the cylinder.

By throwing a switch only the top half of the cylinder will be heated by the gas boiler in summer for DHW purposes. In winter all of the store is heated for CH & DHW. In summer the bottom section is heated by the solar coil.

Think hard about the stats. Using two stats gives boiler anti-cycling. The usual is one half way up set to around 60C, and one at the bottom set to say 75C. From cold the cylinder heats up until the bottom stat switches out at 75C. The cylinder cools from the bottom up, as some DHW and CH extracts heat. The bottom drops below 75C and yet the boiler does not fire. Only when the top stat is under 60C does the boiler fire and re-heat the lot in one efficient burn. A relay is used for this. DPS show the wiring for it on their web site.

Another pair of stats can be positioned in the top of the cylinder for summer operation for DHW. Each pair prevents boiler cycling.

The problem you are on about with cold water passing the stat and nuisance firing is when the only one stat is used at the bottom of the cylinder and a small amount of cold water from the plate after say a basin full of water is drawn off, will pass over it. The store will be full of heat and the boiler fires just to re-heat the small bottom section - not what you want, although a spreader may alleviate the problem.

Also think about a high limit stat at the top if using a wood burner. The store can operate OK at 90 to 95C. Once 95C is reached a pump acts as a heat dump for the wood burner. The high limit stat can also switch out the boiler and solar pump too stopping heat from entering the cylinder.
 
Yep, all been very polite so far!

Trust me tho' I don't have an alter-ego, and I don't think I'm schitzophrenic either...
I must have spent the last 12 months on and off reading up on this gear though - so I know what you're on about :) eg Screwfix etc.
Pinch of salt needed with everything on t'internet to be honest.
Short of going into the plumbers merchants for some total blank looks and bewilderment, or speaking to companies selling the stores who funnily enough all say they're great, the only place to bounce ideas about was sat in front of my PC, until I recently found a plumber via a friend, who doesn't seem phased by any of this, and actually suggested the Nuheat as he'd used them before.

Roll on store delivery... just need to check there is a diffuser at the bottom of the store, although this is why I want two stats in series, to stop any early boiler firing.
 
Ooh, for some reason there's more posts there than when I started typing.
OK, keep calm everyone.
Will have total of four pockets for stats - two middle-ish in series, one top and one bottom for solar/wood.
 

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