Screed floor. Any tips for getting it level please

[eyespy999]

Hi there.

I am in the final stage of my conservatory build. I am having my cement screed delivered on saturday ( as it was cheaper and easier than mixing it myself).

I am going to be laying laminate on the floor once level. Has anyone any tips for getting it flat and is there a lazer tool I can get from the hire shop that anyone would reccomend?

I have underfloor heating pipes laid out and I was going to cement wooden battens accross the floor to assist with the levelling and correct depth.

The floor area is 2.6 x 3.9 m and depth of screed is 85mm.

Thanks for your help.

 

[meadowhog]

I just had my floor done last week. I first marked the 25mm upstand insulation with a marker pen at the level required. To get this in the right place I used a rotating lazer level and a stick. My floor was considerably larger so the one job I didnt do myself was lay the screed as I wouldn't be quick enough. The UFH pipes were under pressure. The screed mix was piled up around the perimeter to about 300mm from the wall and squared up to the mark using a spirit level. A long straight edge (4x2) was then used between the walls and the middle filled in.

 

[eyespy999]

Thanks. I will see if I can pick u a rotating level then just to get things accurtate.

 

[noseall]

Screeding a floor is not as exact as you think.

You can be as precise as you like when ruling off but all will depend upon how you compress the muck with the polyfloat and finishing floor trowel.

Using a laser as a guide is good practice but you will not end up with a floor as flat as a mill pond. There will be dips and hollows.

 

[gregers]

Screeding a floor is not as exact as you think.

You can be as precise as you like when ruling off but all will depend upon how you compress the muck with the polyfloat and finishing floor trowel.

Using a laser as a guide is good practice but you will not end up with a floor as flat as a mill pond. There will be dips and hollows.

yep i agree,then thats when the latex comes into play

 

[eyespy999]

Thanks guys for the info. What is the latex you mentioned or should I stick to a self levelling screed to finish off?

 

[gregers]

thats what it is,a lot/all? have latex in them

 

[meadowhog]

The Latex stuff is self levelling compound you buy as a powder from nearly all builders merchants. If the floor ends up with big dips in it then it may be worth using but even that will have undulations. If you do use it, knock it up wetter than the instructions or you will probably end up with even more undulation. And youve got be quick because it sets quick.

Best to get it as flat as possible, first time. The underlay should then take up the dips. Ask the driver how long the screed will be workable for and spend that time in getting it level. It may have retarder in it which will help. Its a good idea to get them to add some. You dont want it cracking with UFH.

When youve finished cover it with polythene or something to keep the screed from drying out too quick and leave for 2 days before walking on it.

Self levelling screed is something totally different.

 

[brig001]

I have only ever screeded one floor, so I may have done it completely wrong, but it has been down a few years with no problems, so it can't be that far off.

I fixed two rails (made from perforated shelving uprights) about 18" from each end of the room, and made them level. The thought being that the screed would form around them and through the perforations. These formed a guide for the screed plank itself. Made it easy to get it level and flat.

HTH,
Brian.

 

[noseall]

I have only ever screeded one floor, so I may have done it completely wrong, but it has been down a few years with no problems, so it can't be that far off.

I fixed two rails (made from perforated shelving uprights) about 18" from each end of the room, and made them level. The thought being that the screed would form around them and through the perforations. These formed a guide for the screed plank itself. Made it easy to get it level and flat.

HTH,
Brian.

All this is fine until you actually work the muck.

Anybody can screed off/rule off to a fairly high degree off accuracy. It is when you remove the screed bars and actually float the surface and trowel the surface that inconsistencies occur.

Once you start working the surface to get a tight finish you compress the screed and it is impossible to get this process absolutely perfect.

In an ideal world we would rule off the screed then leave it. Only trouble is you would end up with a rough surface to the finished floor and a screed full of air.

 

[eyespy999]

Thanks noseall. I am pressure testing my pipes tomorrow and hopefully can can some home made screed guides laid prior to the mix coming on saturday. I have done some concreting before but not a final screed floor. My mate that is helping me has some experience so hopefully between us we can get it reasonably level. If not it will be a few bags of latex self levelling mixture as previously suggested!

 

[Nige F]

Screeding a floor is not as exact as you think.

how you compress the muck .

yep i agree,then thats when the latex comes into play

Gimp Suit

 

[eyespy999]

Just to update you all, the floor went in well today. The screed was delivered and because the tracked barrow I hired wouldn't start it was a wheelbarrow job and a bucket.

1 cubic metre dumped on the drive but glad I had it delivered and didn't have to mix by hand.

Floor looking good nice and compacted so I hope the curing process goes well.

Cheers