Screw through cable

[DaveOC]

Hi
I have drilled into my wall to put up a curtain rail and gone through a lighting cable. This cable was just plastered into the wall with no covering.
I have cut out around it and managed to join it back up with a connecting block, just to get the lights working again. My problem is what can I use, so that I can plaster it back into the wall. It would be a very big job to re run the cable not to mention cutting a grove out the wall. Any idears anyone ??

Many Thanks

 

[ColJack]

crimps and heat shrink..
6 joints unless you cut it with no losses...
even then there would be no slack..
so you'd have to put a piece of T+E in..
but then you're left with the slack to try and hide...

you're in a bit of a pickle there friend..

the only proper way is to chase the wall out and either replace the cable back to it's origins at both ends, or from one end and join it in the loft / floor space..

this is why people should use capping or conduit..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Capping would have done SFA to stop a drill, and would not comply with 522-06-06(iii) if that applied.

Unfortunately, Dave, if you want to comply with the Wiring Regulations, you can't plaster over that connector block.

You have 3 choices:

1) Repair the cable using crimped joints (but not with a cheap DIY-type crimper)

2) Repair the cable using soldered joints.

3) Replace the cable.

With (1) & (2) you should cover each joint with heat-shrink tubing, and then the whole thing with that, or self-amalgamating tape.

OOI, whereabouts was the cable, in relation to room corners, ceilings, light switches etc?

 

[RF Lighting]

Capping would have done SFA to stop a drill

It would have saved the decorations when the damaged cable was replaced

 

[ColJack]

that's what I was getting at, and with metal capping you can hear when a drill hits it and stop before you go through.. at least that's the theory.. drilled through a few myself..

 

[DESL]

Dave

Check you household insurance for accidental damage cover.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Dave

Check you household insurance for accidental damage cover.

He drilled the hole on purpose, didn't he?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

that's what I was getting at, and with metal capping you can hear when a drill hits it and stop before you go through.. at least that's the theory.. drilled through a few myself..

The theory is that you'll hear it over the noise of a hammer drill?

 

[ColJack]

yeah... it makes a tinny sound.. you feel it too.. and at 3-5mm under the surface, most people should know that you havent hit wall yet for the drill pitch to change.. or for the hammer to kick in ( mine never does until it hits brick.. )

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Hmm - SDS+ corded drill, 750W 3.5J, new bit.

I'll take your word for it....

 

[ColJack]

it's not always perfect, hence why I've drilled a few in my days, but it's saved more than I've drilled...

you must not be as "at one with the cable" as I am...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Dunno.

I just know where all mine are.

 

[ColJack]

so do I, but I don't know where everybody elses is..

 

[Taylortwocities]

ColJack. You are speaking as the man of experience.

Most DIYers, with their Black&Decker 650W drill and a blunt 6mm bit just lean on it a bit harder when it meets resistance.

Most of them have an iPOD in each ear anyways.....

At the end of the day, its happenned, I think BAS has given the specific advice already......

1) Repair the cable using crimped joints (but not with a cheap DIY-type crimper)

2) Repair the cable using soldered joints.

3) Replace the cable.

 

[homespark]

I had a similar problem when a kitchen fitter drilled through one leg of a kitchen ring I had installed. The cable was in the correct zone, but it still happened. No harm done to anyone thankfully. I repaired it with combined 'heat shrink butt crimps' from rapidonline.com. You need pro crimpers and a heat gun, but they're very effective imo. I dealt with the problem of additional slack by chasing slightly wider and deeper and looping the excess cable