Hi, I've managed to drill through a power cable when fitting kitchen units to a wall. It appears to be wiring for the ring main sockets. I've removed the plaster and thought I'd the cut cable and re-join with a 3-way 30A terminal block. This will then sit behind the wall unit when it has been hung. Can any advise if this would be a reasonable repair ?
ring main cable repair
- Thread starter davedave
- Start date
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B
breezer
no, you should use crimps and a ratchet crimper
B
breezer
yes, yes
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See //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37555 for more information.
Can anyone explain (in layman's terms please) what is wrong with simply using a 3-way terminal block to connect them. It would save me buying crimps & a crimper. Also from what I've read it sounds like it's easier to c*ck up using crimps. The join would be behind the wall units with no replastering involved so insualtion from wet should not be an issue. Also, I've heard tell of "chocboxes" which seem to be a box that you can sit a terminal block inside.
When using terminal strips, the connection has to be easily accessible. There are many differing viws on what easily accessible really means since it's not defined in the regs. If your cupboard can be easily removed from the wall without needing to dismantle the whole kitchen then it could be easily accessible. You'll need to make a note of the use of the terminal strip and it's location and it's accessibility and place the note with the CU so that any future electrician knows about it. The only problem comes when someone changes the kicthen and makes the connection inaccessible.
HTH
HTH
At which point it would be down to them to re-make the join...HandyJon said:
B
Big_Spark
Regardless of circumstances, terminal blocks should never be used to make a permanent joint in any electrical circuit, but especially one that will be buried in a wall.
Unless that connection was made totally water tight the chances are that the plaster or filler used to cover it would cause a short circuit anyway when wet.
The absolute minimum, and not one that is persoanlly recommended and not in line with the requirements of BS7671:2004 is a 30A junction box.
The accepted method, as has been stated, is INSULATED CRIMP TERMINALS (Yellow). They do not need to be 30A rated as the individual leg of the ring is extremely unlikely to be subjected to a 30A load, it would exceed the rating of the cable at any rate.
Once crimped, the joint should not simply be hidden in the wall either, it needs to be placed inside a water tight enclosure prior to be covered with plaster or filler.
Unless that connection was made totally water tight the chances are that the plaster or filler used to cover it would cause a short circuit anyway when wet.
The absolute minimum, and not one that is persoanlly recommended and not in line with the requirements of BS7671:2004 is a 30A junction box.
The accepted method, as has been stated, is INSULATED CRIMP TERMINALS (Yellow). They do not need to be 30A rated as the individual leg of the ring is extremely unlikely to be subjected to a 30A load, it would exceed the rating of the cable at any rate.
Once crimped, the joint should not simply be hidden in the wall either, it needs to be placed inside a water tight enclosure prior to be covered with plaster or filler.
Wrap the joint in self amalgamating tape.
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