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Sealing bath where it meets tiling.....

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by WhaleBat, 26 Jan 2007.

  1. confidentincompetent

    confidentincompetent

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    Thats what I thought .. :LOL: I find pushing method ok on strait runs ie over worktops and erm perfect tiling.. but, if I hit say, an uneven tile, it's more difficult to control, so use the drag method mainly .. guess its what you get used to..

    If I do get any on me finger I wipe it off onto a rag, rewet finger, Wipe nozzle before each run. I tend to get the surface of the run wet first by very lightly running a wet finger over, once wet then you can apply a bit more pressure. I use 785 but find if i leave it more than a minute it will have skinned too much :confused:
     
  2. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    I will experiment with both 785 and Forever White. First I will need to find a supplier.

    Is there any reason Thermo would be getting mould on it, when no one else has mentioned it :?:
     
  3. masona

    masona

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    Didn't say which one it is, was it Forever White Thermo :?:

    The Forever White been on my shower tray for approximately 7 months which is been use daily 4 to 5 times, so loads of water slashing on it, not a sign of any black mould and I don't even bother to wipe it.
     
  4. gcol

    gcol

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    I see you pee in the shower too masona. ;)
     
  5. masona

    masona

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    Ah, yeah but no but yeah but my pee is clear so I'm healthy :D

    Is that why Thermo getting black mould :?: :LOL:
     
  6. PilotPete

    PilotPete

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    What about Bal with Microban? Anyone used that as it seems to claim to have a 'live' ingredient which eats the bacteria that causes the mould!? :confused:
     
  7. lancenotalot

    lancenotalot

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    Hi there,
    just flicked through a few of these on sealant round a bath and thought I would share my technique,once the silicon is applied (one run at a time)I drag my finger over it almost immediately and use an empty toilet roll tube to scrape of any sealant from my finger.Never let a skin form before finishing or the finish will go bitty so it's best to do only one run at a time,work out from any corners .Keep the bead as small as needed,too much sealant just creates more problems.
    And of course always have the bath full of water while sealing and until the seal has fully cured. :D
     
  8. tonygerm

    tonygerm

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    i agree with lansealot but not with the bog roll it tends to stick as your trying to wipe yu arse.........
     
  9. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    My comments below refer to sealing a bath....do not take them out of context!!

    I found I was using too much initially and was wiping it onto tissue...and then it was getting everywhere.
    Latterly I have found as you say too...a small bead is better. I have found if I use a wet finger immediately.... I get a better finish now.
    If I wait for the skin to form it can sort of fold over on it'self and look bitty.
    But
    I did find the skin thing timing is crucial....there is a very thin skin the smooths over very well....but judging the timing ...I found tricky....it's quite soon after placing the run.

    My next question
    How are you meant to get access behind the taps on the bath....I find the gun gets in the way and the nozzle is not long enough to complete a smooth run...any suggestions :?:
     
  10. gcol

    gcol

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    When you can walk the rice paper without tearing it, then your steps will not be heard. ;)
     
  11. bigpow

    bigpow

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    The biggest problem here is that the bath is moving and therefore over time will pull the silicon again.
    When I fit a bath I run a large siclon beed around the flat edge of the bath that sits against the surface of the wall so that it adheres to the wall and that the excess appears over the top of the bath. Clean the excess away straightaway and allow to dry before tiling. The run a final beed using a wet finger to even it out, put any addional leftover behind the tap with your finger and run the beed from the corner out both ways :). Allways works for me but takes some time to get it right.

    Hope it helps, I use whatever trade silicon is available at the time but most are fine :)

    Good luck
     
  12. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    I think your suggestion to seal the side during the bath installation is a good point, and practice makes perfect wrt running the beads etc.

    I will just need to get on with it..I have got the hang of it.....a point made in a previous posting not to use a large bead...I found helpful too.
    I am aware that this topic posting has been rather long but I appreciate other opinions.
    Thanks again.

    Gcol
    About walking the rice paper...where do you source the rice paper.....how many sheets do you need...if you don't tear it do you get a Blue Peter badge? :evil:
     
  13. j03

    j03

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    A plumber friend of mine said that a water spray bottle with washing up liquid is the best thing to use. Put the sealant on the area, spray the soapy water on it al (light spray) and rub, no need to wet finger as the soap stops the mastic from sticking to your hand, it also stops it fro spreading out too far over the bath and tiles.
     
  14. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    Thanks for the suggestion JO3....I will experiment with it.
    Cheers
    :LOL:
     
  15. Bodgenot

    Bodgenot

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    When finishing the seal do not use saliva, spit on your finger and you are transfering bacteria into/onto your sealant, it can go mouldy. Use diluted washing up liquid. Dow Corning 785 is the best I've come across.
     
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