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Sealing bath where it meets tiling.....

Discussion in 'Decorating and Painting' started by WhaleBat, 26 Jan 2007.

  1. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    When a new bath was installed the selant around the bath was poorly done.

    When anyone got into a full bath...a gap appeared between the bath and the tiles.

    I cleared out all the sealant.
    Then I filled the bath and resealed around the bath and left it to dry for two days. No gap appears now.

    Question
    I found using the silicon sealant a tricky and messy job.
    Although I eventually got the job done ...for what I thought was a simple job ...it took me ages.

    I used a wet spoon to smooth over the sealant, but found all I was doing was collecting a spoon full of sealant (back of tea spoon).

    I tried using a wet finger, but the sealant accumulated on my finger. When I tried to reapply the silicon fom my finger into the gap...everthing went pearshaped......the consistancy of the line of sealant was spoilt.

    Question

    I read in a book I could use masking tape above and below the gap....but all that resulted was lots of mess and silicon attaching to the tape.

    Can anyone suggest the best way to do this task correctly and efficiently.

    Thanks in advance for any assistance
     
  2. Galena1

    Galena1

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    Hi - Decide what size of bead you want and cut the nozzle at 90 degrees, not 45 as is often suggested.
    Assuming you are right-handed, you will find it easier to apply moving from right to left. Hold the trigger of the gun in your right hand and place your left hand about 2" back from the base of the nozzle.
    Place the end of the nozzle into the angle to be sealed, straight on, at an angle of 45 degrees. Keeping this angle of 45 degrees, tilt the gun to your right, also 45 degrees.
    You need to squeeze the gun steadily as you push it along. The nozzle points in the direction that is yet to be filled. What you are trying to do is allow the cut end of the nozzle to do most of the shaping of the sealant for you.
    Leave it for a couple of minutes or so, this will allow a slight 'skin' to form.
    Apply, generously, some of the best lubricant for this purpose
    saliva, to your finger and very gently pull your finger along. You should apply virtually no pressure at all, just enough to ease out any irregularities.
    That's the easy bit, now all you have to do is get in all those odd little nooks and crannies, but the same principles apply. I recommend a bit of practice, bend some cardboard or similar to 90 degrees and practice.
     
  3. noseall

    noseall

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    is this the best kept trade secret or do all internal installers do it this way? i have yet to see a upvc monkey do it this way but i guess a welded looking bead is ok for an external window scenario. in other words no finger.
     
  4. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    Please advise a little further Galena1..........

    I am right handed.....

    Question 1
    If I tilt the gun to the right, away from me....(the direction I am going to move to fill?) the nozzle will be pointing to the left.....?

    Question 2
    So I am moving in a sort of dragging movement, with the sealant following behind?

    Question 3
    Is the nozzle tight into the gap or hovering a few mm above it?

    Question 4
    What is a realistic time to leave the sealant to form a "Skin" to manipulate it.......it took several days to dry properly when I did my bath?

    Question 4
    What sealant would you recommend?
    I used a General purpose White Silicon Sealant.

    Please explain your posting Noseall.....
    I don't understand it! What would you do?

    Thanks in advance
     
  5. Softus

    Softus

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    Hopefully G1 won't mind me butting in, since my technique is exactly the same as his/hers...

    Correct. Point the nozzle to the left, and move it to the left.

    Er, no - quite wrong. The sealant should emerge in front of the nozzle, but gets injected into the gap because that's where the nozzle is pointing (because of the 45° angle).

    Touching, but not shoved tight. And most definitely not hovering.

    What?! Don't attempt to manipulate it after the skin forms - you'll just make a mess. The skin starts forming between immediately and 15 minutes, depending on temperature. If yours took days then you must be using dilute custard. :eek:

    Dow Corning 785 mildew resistant sanitary sealant. Anything else is second best.
     
  6. Galena1

    Galena1

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    Hi - Softus has just about covered it. We'll have to agree to disagree on the 'skinning' aspect :D . Personally, I prefer to leave it just a couple of minutes before applying spit wetted finger. Regards
     
  7. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    I knew I had misunderstood G1's explanation......in my Question1...which showed in your response to my question 2!!!.....thanks for the corrections.

    I made a terrible mess doing my bath....frustrating.....I thought it would be simple......it was only myself that was simple!!!.....sealant sticking to my fingers etc......I had to clear it all out and start again. :oops:

    G1 referred to manipulating the bead after the skin developed.....so if correctly done....to summarise....it should all come from the gun technique, No touching?

    I will master this and honor everyones contribution, thanks.

    G1 is going to post some pictures....I will look forward to viewing them. :LOL:

    G1 did you edit your posting....are you going to post some pictures still...or did I imagine that?!!!!
     
  8. Galena1

    Galena1

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    Hi WhaleBat - No, not your imagination :D , but I spotted Softus's post and thought he had it all well covered. I agree with Softus 100% on the use of Dow Silicone, but you might like to buy a couple of cheaper tubes of silicone for a practice session using cardboard or timber, or anything rigid that you can form a 90 degree angle with. It might seem a waste of money, but look upon it as an investment in your achieving 'siliconing perfection' ;)
    I'm new to DIYnot so am unsure of how to post a picture but will look into it further tomorrow, by which time, of course, you will have(probably) finished the job. Regards.[/img]
     
  9. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    I have plenty of bits of wood around at the moment to have a go.

    I found a link here on this site for posting images...

    http://www.diynot.com/forums/faq.php?mode=bbcode#9
    although it states some are not happy with lots of pics in the forums.

    As you have both explained all clearly , I don't need a pic anyway.

    Thanks again
     
  10. Galena1

    Galena1

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    You're welcome and thanks for the photo link
     
  11. masona

    masona

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    I always use Forever White Silicone Sealant (Comes with a 10 year mould warranty) , do you think the Dow Corning 785 is better? Might be the same stuff :)

    WhaleBat,

    If you still can't get the hang of it then how about bath seal, they are very good as I have them in my shower, here. They are very helpful as well
     
  12. WhaleBat

    WhaleBat

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    Hi Masona,

    Thanks for the link....the product here looks good ...nice finish.

    Thanks
     
  13. Softus

    Softus

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    Galena1 - interesting comment about the skinning. Being ever open to ways of improving the job, I'll try out your way and see how I get on with it.

    Doing the training sessions with a lesser sealant might be a false economy - 785 has an almost unique consistency and the 'saliva wipe' is, consequently, subtly different.

    masona - I did once try Forever White, when I was without my 785 and the nearest stockist didn't have any, and I was impressed, but I still think that 785 is unbeatable.
     
  14. Thermo

    Thermo

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    im not, ive used it on our bath 5 months ago and its already starting to get mould on it :cry:
     
  15. iaith

    iaith

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    I'm looking forward to trying these techniques. Thanks Galena1 and Softus for your input. I've never been totally happy with the masking tape way .
    Cheers
     
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