security light fused spur

[p_a_johnson]

Guys - crazed DIYer who had my house before put a plug on some 2.5 mm t&e and plugged it in above boards then ran it under the floor to the security light.

I want to get rid of this, free up the single bedroom socket and run a permanent cable under the floor to a fused switch then into external security light.

Can I do this? Do I just simply cut into the 2.5 t&e feeding the plug, join back with a 3 way jb then run the cable to fused switch???
Is this safe?

 

[kendor]

I wouldn't recommend the JB, can you not incorporate the light into your lighting circuit easily? Say moving the security light up higher and feeding it from the loft?

 

[breezer]

security lights are usually 500w, better it stays on the ring, do not move it physically higher as your neighbours will love you (not)

 

[securespark]

essential it stays on the ring!!

assuming the 2.5 is good, you could leave it in circuit and connect the other end to a fused switched spur tapped off the socket.

 

[Inspector]

Do you want to be able to switch on and off the security light? If so where would you like to do this - at your back door or in your bedroom?

Most halogen security light fittings with a PIR fitted allow you to control the light by toggling the associated light switch - OFF, AUTO (as a security light) or ON (permanently).

 

[plugwash]

or if you don't want the switch at floor level and wan't to keep the cable

put an unswitched fused pur next to the socket
feed the unswitched fused spur with 2.5mm from the socket

connect the neutral of the wire from the light to the neutral of the output side of the cu

connect the red wire of a new peice of t&e to the live output of the fcu
mark the black wire of the new cable red and use chock block inside the fcu box to connect it to the live from the light

run new cable up to lightsiwtch mar the black conductor red and fit lightswitch

 

[securespark]

then the floodlight will only be live with switch on. What if it has an integral PIR.

Don't want to put your nose OOJ, Inspector, but not all floodlights by far have toggle override. The DIY sheds do, but most of the pro stuff from wholesalers does not. Of course, you can fit a manual override by linking live & switched live via a 1 Way switch.

 

[kendor]

security lights are usually 500w, better it stays on the ring, do not move it physically higher as your neighbours will love you (not)

The total lighting load in my 3 bed semi is 720 watts another 500 watts still leaves plenty of scope for additions and it could be possible for p a to add this safely to his lighting circuit if he does a calculation first of course,
I have a security light up high in order to light the garden it doesn't cause any light contamination to any neighbours and if care is taken that shouldn't be a problem for p a. unless he lives in a tower block

 

[p_a_johnson]

ok ... lots to think about ... but it is safe to simply spur off the t&e feeding the socket?

simply put the jb in and join both live to socket and light to same feed and same with neutral?

thanks for all your help

 

[plugwash]

when wiring lighting to a ring a fused spur with an appropriate fuse *must* be used

it is acceptable to spur from the socket or ring cable in 2.5mm and use a switched fused spur as the lightswitch though