self leveling concrete?

No, screeds got to be a minimum of 50mm, so if you've only got 10mm to finish off, then use self leveling compound. You'd apply an acrylic primer to the floor, and then the compound, but read up first on how to do it.
 
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No, screeds got to be a minimum of 50mm, so if you've only got 10mm to finish off, then use self leveling compound. You'd apply an acrylic primer to the floor, and then the compound, but read up first on how to do it.
Ok this might well be the way to go.. as I have already filled the void in the floor.. I now have to use minimum 150mm of hardcore and if I want to use 150mm of polystyrene instead of 100mm kingspan (to keep costs down) i dont have any space to play with, unless i start digging it out - which im not going to do...! im pushing the 150mm hardcore as it is.. but this is the requirement of the building inspector
 
Ok my question originally was - Is there a self leveling concrete product that can be used which will give a final finish?
No. And 'self levelling' is misleading term.
To achieve a decent finish using concrete only (no screed) requires a chunk of skill and a lot of hard work and patience. If you have a pour in the morning, you may be able to work the surface in the afternoon. Expect to be still trowelling at midnight if temperatures plummet. Look into hiring a power float and anything else that makes the job less difficult.

Otherwise leave the finished rough concrete level say 75mm+ down from FFL and lay a sand/cement screed on top.
 
Yes there are self compacting and 'self leveling' concretes.
If you are putting a screed on top you can use lafarge's one it goes in really easily you just tamp it once. It does not give a good enough finish to use as a FF.
You can get bagged concretes which self level to a degree they produce a really tight finish normally ready for polishing.
These are expensive as the product is more and you need a mixing screed pump to place it.
You don't want to power float if you are tiling as it will have to be shot blasted or ground so the adhesive will stick.
If you are carpeting then you can get away with a mag/bull/fresno floated finish.
 
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Ok thanks a lot everyone... its a lot more complicated than i ever thought..! just spoke with the building inspector and he told me I can use either method, will get a price on self leveling concrete tomorrow
 
The wetter the concrete mixture the more it will tend to self level. However more water means the concrete cures weaker I believe. Speak to readymix companies about maybe having a stronger gen footings mix then adding more water. I believe the term is slump and all I know from the pours I have done that 180 slump is quite wet.
 
You can't really add too much more water to make it self leveling, as making a stronger mix causes more shrinkage, also adding more water causes more shrinkage, so both together would crack loads.
I believe screed is specially designed to flow better but still needs screeding out, and self leveling compound isn't even cement based.
 
Self leveling concrete is just a mix, it just happens to be a mix which flows well. It has the correct grading of large and small particles, some silica fume etc which is nano particle sizes, la farge use pink granite to give it strength so the concrete is pink; a wetting agent to stop surface tension and to stop the strong bonding of water molecules and a mix of cements.
The architectural concretes work on the same principle but can have marble dusts and other bits in to make it flow.

Flowing screed is different, it's normally gypsum based.
 

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