Semi to Fully pumped upgrade Questions. Pics included

[wodger]

Hi,

I am planning to upgrade my unpumped HW and pumped CH circuit to fully pumped Y-Plan.

I have attached some current and proposed pictures and would appreciate someone taking a look and letting me know if I am on the right track or not.

Any comments / suggestions would be appreciated. Any suggestions for easier DIY'er upgrade also welcome

Thanks
Warren

Current Boiler configuration:

Current Cylinder configuration:

Planned Boiler configuration:

Planned Cylinder configuration: (Basically just adding a tank stat)

 

[Softus]

I can't make sense of your proposed pipework changes.

What's the problem that you're trying to solve?

If you want to make the DHW primary pumped, then why not just add a pump to that circuit, controlled by a cylinder stat?

If you mess with the flow through this boiler (and you seem to be about to feed the DHW return into the CH flow, via a three port valve!), and get it wrong, then you risk damaging the heat exchanger.

 

[GPlumb]

I would also just add a pump onto the DHW circuit.

I can't make sense of your new pipe work either.

 

[tonybhoy]

How can he simply add a pump to the DHW side?


The cold feed and expansion come off these two pipes at the cylinder so a pump is a no go other wise he'll have to reposition the feed and expansion.

 

[GPlumb]

Your right tony, my bad.

 

[tonybhoy]

Your right tony, my bad.

Slap on the back of the legs for you boy

 

[Terrywookfit]

You would also need two relays to control the pumps.

There is no short cut to convert to fully pumped.

 

[wodger]

So would my original plan work?

Thanks for the replies so far.

Warren

 

[BGEngineer]

They stopped making this boiler in 1978 and therefore no parts are available or installation instructions, therefore do not know if you can even have it as fully pumped, may overheat with no pump overun if you take away the gravity circuit. Think you should consider a new boiler.

 

[wodger]

They stopped making this boiler in 1978 and therefore no parts are available or installation instructions, therefore do not know if you can even have it as fully pumped, may overheat with no pump overun if you take away the gravity circuit. Think you should consider a new boiler.

I find that odd as the boiler was only installed in October 1995. (I still have the install instructions too!) Last year during annual service I asked the engineer if it was worth replacing and he said it was a good boiler performing well so did not warrant spending money replacing.

I think it will be a darned site cheaper updating to Y plan (even if I get someone in to do it in the end) than replacing a boiler. I know my system can be converted, I would just like to do it myself as I enjoy DIY hence asking if I have the right idea.

I might just have to give in on this one and get someone in however dissapointed I will be at not doing it myself.

Warren

 

[ChrisR]

Pish tish.

Add one pump in the return from the cylinder to the boiler, between the cyl and the Tee, and one pipe stat clamped on the flow, and the cylinder stat.
Power goes from timer to the cyl stat to the pipe stat to the pump, when the timer's on and the pipe's hot.

Sorted.
Next ?

 

[Softus]

How can he simply add a pump to the DHW side?

Well, start by draining down.

Then, cut about 150mm out of the return to the boiler - the resulting gap is where you put the pump.

Oh - don't forget to refill. Add inhibitor to taste.

 

[namsag]

Cant be arsed looking out the books regards configuration but is there not something about the two pumps pumping against each other

I take it the OP is thinking of cost savings , as in constant circulation around the gravity circuit when heating is on. Then simplest answer is cylinder stat and motorised valve on the gravity circuit D halisham has the wiring diagram

 

[DP]

DHW flow from boiler. At cylinder remove tee and fit coupler so now vent pipe does not ‘service’ the cylinder but still is an open vent connected to the boiler. No fitting (pumps etc should be fitted to this pipe or the feed pipe to impede flow of water)

Now install a 22x15x22 tee to stub on the cylinder (pipe that was disconnected above). Fit tee with 15 connection uppermost and branch to cylinder. Run 22mm pipe to location where the motorised valve is to be installed. Fit a gate valve on this pipe (to aid balancing). Fit vent to 15mm connection on tee.

Now fit 3 port valve at location indicated in your picture. New 22mm pipe run now takes primary water to cylinder. Do not alter pipe run left of flue. Make sure fitting left hand pipe (first picture) CANNOT impede safe discharge from vent pipe, should the boiler stat fail.

 

[tonybhoy]

How can he simply add a pump to the DHW side?

Well, start by draining down.

Then, cut about 150mm out of the return to the boiler - the resulting gap is where you put the pump.

Oh - don't forget to refill. Add inhibitor to taste.

Har,har,har. Your a card big yin