Should I just build a cupboard

JP_

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I have a space for our broom cupboard (almost) which is max 110cm wide, 250cm tall and 50-55cm deep.

This from DIYKitchens is a close fit, although short of the ceiling by 20cm
https://www.diy-kitchens.com/kitche...2300-including-150-legs/wp18168/#.YJVpMrVKiUk

But almost £300 with doors.

It will be in a corner, so if I build a fitted one, it would only need one side panel, and the front with doors. How hard can it be?!?

A 45cm deep furniture panel from Wickes is just £7.66
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Furniture-Panel---15mm-x-450mm-x-2400mm/p/110086

Could carry the skirting board along at the bottom and a bit of architrave at the top to cover the 10cm gap.... But not sure on doors or building the front. Any suggestions?

Will obviously need plenty of wood to build it, along with some shelves (but not many has will have the vacuum, broom, mop etc.)
 
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Basically most furniture is a series of boxes, so making a box isn't that difficult. As to doors, look for a specialist manufacturer of bedroom doors who can make bespoke sizes. In the north west (or South Yorkshire) one of my go to suppliers is HPP (Hills Panel Products) in Oldham (and Sheffield) but there are other firms dotted around the country who can make up doors for you
 
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Sounds like a plan, thanks
 
What size wood should I use for the frame?
And how big a gap is needed for doors.

Thinking of building using these

and putting in these doors - with the top as a separate cupboard - room is 2.5m tall, and the outside width of the cupboard can be 110cm, maybe a bit more if needed.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Redwood-PSE-Timber---44mm-x-69mm-x-2-4m/p/9000036462

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Closed-Internal-Louvre-Door---1829mm-x-457mm/p/187379

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Closed-Internal-Louvre-Door---457mm-x-457mm/p/187373

Does this look OK?
 
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I made a sample carcass using plywood, personally it didn’t cut the mustard, really you could do with a pocket jig like a cheapo Kregg.

Get your panels cut to size from a timber merchant, as sheet cutting is not that easy to do well, unless you’ve got a track saw.
 
Idea is to do something like this (but maybe with a base of sorts):
4456809541_a5712011dd_b.jpg


Might cover in plasterboard then get my plasterer to skim it when he is next round. Will save me faffing about trying to cut mdf perfectly.
So 110cm wide, but doors can be thinner. So, if I get 2 doors 457mm wide, total 914mm - how wide should the gap be?
That above looks like 2by4?

This is my room at the moment

IMG_20210726_180550200.jpg
 
Anything wrong with space at the top if you fitted a cornice around like kitchen wall units?
Another thought, if you have a wall jutting out will you still have have the other side of the door to manoeuvre furniture through which sometimes involved pivoting around the door frame
 
Not sure what you mean by space at the top. Moving furniture would be OK as the rooms off this both have good external access.
 
oh yeah - I have decided to build it myself, go all the way to the ceiling.
 
Yes. My last question was, what size wood should I use, and how big the door gap needs to be?

What size wood should I use for the frame?
And how big a gap is needed for doors.

Thinking of building using these

and putting in these doors - with the top as a separate cupboard - room is 2.5m tall, and the outside width of the cupboard can be 110cm, maybe a bit more if needed.

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Redwood-PSE-Timber---44mm-x-69mm-x-2-4m/p/9000036462

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Closed-Internal-Louvre-Door---1829mm-x-457mm/p/187379

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-White-Closed-Internal-Louvre-Door---457mm-x-457mm/p/187373
 
Door gap will depend on what kind of cladding on the frame and type of hinges you use, once you decide you'll know how far across the front to return the side wall which will beef it up .
 

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