Should this be crimped?

[dormermike]

Hi

Had an induction hob fitted six months ago and it's working fine. It's on 6mm cable fitted by an electrician. I was just reading about regs and 6mm flex is supposed to be crimped, I think? Should I redo this, or leave it?

Thanks

 

[pete01]

I would but no not really.

 

[Deleted member 142255]

Personally I wouldn't call the guy an electrician.

I would either have used fork lugs, ring lugs or wrapped the conductors round the screw so they came back the other side.

I would also have left slack on the earth conductor so that in the event the cable gets pulled out, the earth is the last conductor, not the first to be pulled from it's terminal.

 

[AndyPRK]

Nothing wrong with that

You need to leave room on the other side of the screw for the links

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I would expect crimped lugs, or at least the wire to go around the screw, for better more secure contact. The earth wire, as mentioned above, ought to have been left longer, so it would be the last one to be pulled out, rather than the first to give. The flex doesn't look like 6mm, more like 2.5mm?

 

[Deleted member 142255]

Nothing wrong with that

You need to leave room on the other side of the screw for the links

Ahhh, you mean the link that is barely under the screw because the screw is now at an angle and has pushed it out?

 

[blup]

Most sparkies would do it like that, add a ring lug if you're not happy

 

[flameport]

Should I redo this, or leave it?

Two of the three links are on the wrong side, and the wires should have ferrules fitted.
Links and the wires should go on the left side of the screw only, which is why there is a tab there to stop the wire/link moving inwards when the screw is tightened.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I would either have used fork lugs, ring lugs or wrapped the conductors round the screw so they came back the other side.

Before crimp lugs, ferrules and etc., a good method was to form the flex into a full circle, then bind the two straight bits together, with thin fuse wire, forming a sort of banjo shape.

 

[SUNRAY]

Two of the three links are on the wrong side, and the wires should have ferrules fitted.
Links and the wires should go on the left side of the screw only, which is why there is a tab there to stop the wire/link moving inwards when the screw is tightened.

In my experience, having everything under the same side of the screw will force the screw to tip and leave the fixing insecure and a potential single point of contact/overheating, also the reality is those terminals are unlikely to have the capacity for a 6mm² ferrule, let alone a ferrule and a link in one side.

Excuse my crude sketch

 

[blup]

Having everything under the same side of the screw will force the screw to tip and leave the fixing insecure, also the reality is those terminals are unlikely to have the capacity for a 6mm² ferrule, let alone a ferrule and a link in one side.

Excuse my crude sketchView attachment 371512

That way the link maximises continuity. And what is the point of the tab if not as Flameport describes?

 

[pete01]

This is what should be used to do a proper job.

 

[SUNRAY]

Most sparkies would do it like that,

Sadly you are correct

That way the link maximises continuity. And what is the point of the tab if not as Flameport describes?

I can only go by my experience of fixing the damage caused, the links are possibly self controlling by the length of the tines, however on the other side the action of the screw pushes the conductor out and therefore has the opposite issue.

With the tab there (which many similar terminals don't have) a ring crimp or wrapping the wire round the screw (unlikely yo be easy with 6mm²) are not ideal as it may result in an insecure fixing or cutting into the wire.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I can only go by my experience of fixing the damage caused, the links are possibly self controlling by the length of the tines, however on the other side the action of the screw pushes the conductor out and therefore has the opposite issue.

A work-around, without using crimps, is to strip a longer length of the insulation from the flex, and run the bared end, in the form of a U, around each of those screws. That way, the screw is not put under any side pressure, the flex makes direct contact with all three terminals, and the links can be discarded.

 

[SUNRAY]

A work-around, without using crimps, is to strip a longer length of the insulation from the flex, and run the bared end, in the form of a U, around each of those screws. That way, the screw is not put under any side pressure, the flex makes direct contact with all three terminals, and the links can be discarded.

Agreed, as long as the wire isn't cut due to being pinched between the screwhead and the tab then yes I agree it would be a workable idea.
As can be seen here

the screw is pushed hard over to the bottom (similar to my sketch), that may be due to the wire being trapped against the tab and not properly against the flat metalwork.