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Shower Bar Fitting Hell - Help Advise needed Pls

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Steven Hastings, 17 Nov 2019.

  1. Steven Hastings

    Steven Hastings

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    Help or Advise need - Plumbing novice but DIY savey

    Had problems with the thermostat on my old shower mixer valve bar. Bought a new one yesterday but when taking it off the old one the Compression unit (sorry of I am not using correct terminology) came out too. See pics.

    Having done some overnight homework (you tube) I went out and bought new olives and PTFE tape but the issue is that I can't access the female end of the unit to hold it in place when tightening it up so unit doesn't compress to pipe and just pulls out.

    I don't mind getting a tradesman in but really really don't want to have to rip tiles off to do it!

    As you will see from the pics an option could be to Gripfill inside the hole and then slide the compression unit with both sections and new olive inside onto the pipe (loses) and hope the female section drys and stays in place and then tighten it up. I have tried sliding the unit on a piece of copper pipe I had and tightening and it seemed to work.

    Hope you follow the ramblings of a frustrated and beaten man!

    Any ideas thoughts welcome. IMG_1038.JPG 1-2-x-15mm-straight-female-iron-x19-cb14-15d-29203-p.jpg IMG_1037.JPG IMG_1035.JPG IMG_1034.JPG IMG_1031.JPG IMG_1038.JPG IMG_1038.JPG 1-2-x-15mm-straight-female-iron-x19-cb14-15d-29203-p.jpg

    Thanks
     
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  3. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Oh dear, unfortunately there's not a lot you can do about that without doing something with the tiles unless you can get access from the other side. Those Z connectors are a nightmare too.
     
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  4. Gasguru

    Gasguru

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    Hmm, I wonder how secure the other compression fitting is...

    Unless you remove the tiles I can only think of bonding the compression coupling back on... http://justforcopper.co.uk/

    Clean and prep the pipe/fitting and prior to bonding re-connect the offset coupling to the compression coupling and mark the wall for the correct position for the new shower.


    It states in the FAQs...

    Can JUST-FOR-COPPERâ„¢ be used to cold weld materials or metals other than copper?

    No! JUST-FOR-COPPERâ„¢ is formulated for use on rigid copper and copper alloy pipe and copper and brass fittings or connectors only

    I guess success depends on the condition of the copper pipe end (I guess fine given the olive slipped off so easily) and snug fit within the coupling.

    I've never used copper bonding and have no intention of ever doing so...up to you.
     
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  5. dilalio

    dilalio

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    It all depends what's on the other side of that wall... If another room in your house, then I'd be chopping a big hole from that side and rerouting the pipework so that the compression elements can be assembled on a new bit of copper pipe "tightly"; pushed through the hole and then soldered onto the supply within the wall from the other side... If it's an exterior or party wall, you're in for some grief! :(
    You could try removing that 1 tile! :sick:
     
  6. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    Take the 2 tiles off and redo both joints, the last thing you want is a leaking joint while you are away. Especially it leaking behind the tiles and down the wall to the ceiling below. Then the tiles would have to come off via an insurance claim.

    Andy
     
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  7. Steven Hastings

    Steven Hastings

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    Thanks so for for help. The other side is an outside wall! So coming in from the back isn't an option unfortunately. Have had a feel about and if I take the 2 tiles off the problem is I still don't think there is enough room to grip the female end. I think this is why the compression didn't work and it came off so easily. I am surprised it has lasted 11 years (the botch renovation happened then just before I moved in!)
     
  8. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    When you take the tiles off you can dig the wall out around the pipe to give you more access.

    Andy
     
  9. dilalio

    dilalio

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    Are you saying the stub of 15mm copper off the elbow is not long enough or that the wall is still in the way of doing up the compression nut properly?

    If the latter, then just gouge out an area around the pipe, enough to get your tools on! It won't matter behind the tile once it's put back, you can leave a void or fill it with tile adhesive!
     
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  11. dilalio

    dilalio

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    FFS! you typed less than me :LOL:;)
     
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  12. Steven Hastings

    Steven Hastings

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    The wall or plaster board will still be in the way but can dig / cut around. Looks like the tiles are gonna have to come off then :( I just know I won't be able to find new matching replacements so does that mean re tiling the whole bath room....or being creative. FFS. Have my eye on some matching tiles under the bath ATM :)
     
  13. Steven Hastings

    Steven Hastings

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    Cn I get the tiles off without breaking / cracking them....?
     
  14. dilalio

    dilalio

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    If the wall is plasterboard, you can try cutting through the grout joint and straight through the plasterboard and taking a whole section out... Tile-sized bit of wall.

    If it's a solid wall then you might struggle... I've had some successes in the past but not all... You could try soaking behind the tile through the hole and grout joints by squirting water in and letting it moisten the adhesive!
    Get a multitool with a grout removal blade attachment.
     
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  15. Steven Hastings

    Steven Hastings

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    Well the solution is cap the shower inlets under the bath. Get a bath mixer valve as per picture and a shelf to cover the holes! Done.
    Screenshot 2019-11-17 at 19.46.19.png Screenshot 2019-11-17 at 18.39.17.png
     
  16. HERTS P&D

    HERTS P&D

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    I had a customer who had the same problem as what you have, I had to cut a square section around the pipework for access, then the customer got a food grade stainless steel plate cut that fitted over the complete area and the shower was refitted. His tiles were discontinued.

    Andy
     
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  17. Steven Hastings

    Steven Hastings

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    Thanks and good thinking. I had thought about this. Couldn't find a ready made plate that would fit. Trying to keep costs down.
     
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