Shower switch, must be an easier way.

[ColJack]

After doing 2 shower pull cords with 10mm T+E these past few weeks, I really hope that someone is coming up with a better way of wiring them.
It's ridiculous trying to bend the 10mm into the terminals and even worse trying to cram it all into the single backbox and get the front on.

I'm thinking something that uses a double backbox and has the same kind of terminals as a cooker outlet plate. Maybe with the front separate. ?

I'll look into it.

 

[chivers67]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crabtree-2167-Shower-Switch-50amp/dp/B0048SEAAG

Ever tried crabtree Pull cord switches? wouldn't use anything else personally

 

[17thman]

hi, did 60 of them last year in wet room convesrsions for housing association. are you using 25mm patresses? you can get extention or skeleton patresses, i got by with 47mm ones

 

[333rocky333]

I think more accessories should be designed, if possible so you terminate to a fixed base and then fit a front cover, rather than the connect first then push back into the box,

Not done much domestic , but i take it thats why you sometimes see a few inches of stripped T and E sheathing poking up into the loft.

 

[securespark]

Yeah, Crabtree are very good indeed.

The other approach is to dress the tails very neatly so they fit perfectly into the terminals with minimum length and that way, the switch screws back to the box easily.

 

[ColJack]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crabtree-2167-Shower-Switch-50amp/dp/B0048SEAAG

Ever tried crabtree Pull cord switches? wouldn't use anything else personally

looks good, I'll have to try those next time I have to..
think the ones I was given were crabtree, but the square ones..

and yes, used a 47mm deep surface backbox.. might use a deep metal one next time and screw it to a batten across the rafters..
or even a twin ( ie 2 singles in one box ) and put a blank on one and an extension ring on the other for a bit more space..

The other approach is to dress the tails very neatly so they fit perfectly into the terminals with minimum length and that way, the switch screws back to the box easily

tried that too,, still struggled to get the front back on..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

but i take it thats why you sometimes see a few inches of stripped T and E sheathing poking up into the loft.

That's what I've done, except you won't see the unsheathed parts (even if you did lift the floor) - I've got a couple of short lengths of flexible conduit glanded to the box, so the cables can slide back up those and still be contained.

 

[sparkybird]

I'm with you ColJack on this one. Even being super neat and tidy I still find them a PITA. Often the knock out in the back of the box is tiny so a struggle to get 2 x 10mm with sheath into the box

Maybe it's because I'm a bird and 10mm is stronger than me I think!

I've not seen the Crabtree one before (normally use MK square ones) so might give it a whirl next time

SB

 

[333rocky333]

used a 47mm deep surface backbox.. might use a deep metal one next time ..

Intriguied, how will that help.
If its for strength would a pvc box be preferable to the brittle type box

 

[ColJack]

side entry rather than back entry, also, if using back entry the hole would be in a different place rather than central.. as said the knockout hole is a little tight for 2 10mm's.

add to that the lack of chamfered bits of the side knockouts inside the box and you have a little more room for the cables..

 

[RMS]

Yeah, Crabtree are very good indeed.

The other approach is to dress the tails very neatly so they fit perfectly into the terminals with minimum length and that way, the switch screws back to the box easily.

Have to agree.

However if the switch is existing there may not be the slack available to do this. I will renew the switch, push the switch back to the pattress then pull it down slightly and re tighten the screws. I find that when pushing the switch back the cables are so stiff they can force themselves slack in the terminals.

A 47mm pattress is a must. I agree that there needs to be a better design to this. Insulated and sheathed tri rated conductors would make a difference if they were available. Then theres the cost to think about. A larger enclosure would be better but then theres asthetics to think about.

 

[RMS]

Yeah, Crabtree are very good indeed.

The other approach is to dress the tails very neatly so they fit perfectly into the terminals with minimum length and that way, the switch screws back to the box easily.

Have to agree.

However if the switch is existing there may not be the slack available to do this. I will renew the switch, push the switch back to the pattress then pull it down slightly and re tighten the screws. I find that when pushing the switch back the cables are so stiff they can force themselves slack in the terminals.

A 47mm pattress is a must. I agree that there needs to be a better design to this. Insulated and sheathed tri rated conductors would make a difference if they were available. Then theres the cost to think about. A larger enclosure would be better but then theres aesthetics to think about.

 

[ColJack]

regular light switch and a contactor in the fuseboard cupboard?