Are the riser kits for shower trays with the threaded bar that screws in to the tray any good?
Shower tray riser kit
- Thread starter Fredstudio
- Start date
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it's for a 760 shower tray in an l shaped enclosure up against 2 walls
Sorry but there isn't such a thing as a good riser kit IMO. In all the time I've been working with showers I have never found one that works properly for any length of time. They all seems to leak/crack eventually.
Build a sturdy, level wooden plinth with an 18mm top and lock it to the floor/wall.
Build a sturdy, level wooden plinth with an 18mm top and lock it to the floor/wall.
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Not an issue ... stone resin with a nice flat base ... I wouldn't even use sand and cement. A good strong base then a good strong adhesive would work fine.
Some only use S&C, some use a flexi tile adhesive, I've used a good strong silicone adhesive when suitable without issue - depends on the warranty too and if that's to be maintained.
Some only use S&C, some use a flexi tile adhesive, I've used a good strong silicone adhesive when suitable without issue - depends on the warranty too and if that's to be maintained.
Thanks but if I used the riser kit. Would you spread the weight of the legs with some 4/1 timber under the shower legs?
I know the 4x2 is probably best. But I'm thinking of speed it's a rental accommodation and by boss is pestering my for how long the job will take
Nope, wouldn't use a riser kit at all.
The primary reason is because riser kits create point loading, whereby all the weight that the tray and floor has to bear is focused on 4 small points both on the tray and the floor. That lends itself to creating instability and movement which are the 2 ley areas that can cause problems longer term when it comes to tray movement and subsequent seals being breached and then allow water to leak into walls and into floors.
It can also cause stress cracking in the tray over time
Tray are always best laid flat with the weight distributed over the whole area.
The primary reason is because riser kits create point loading, whereby all the weight that the tray and floor has to bear is focused on 4 small points both on the tray and the floor. That lends itself to creating instability and movement which are the 2 ley areas that can cause problems longer term when it comes to tray movement and subsequent seals being breached and then allow water to leak into walls and into floors.
It can also cause stress cracking in the tray over time
Tray are always best laid flat with the weight distributed over the whole area.
Not an issue as the hole for the threaded bolts doesn't effect the soundness of the tray..
Leave the front back about 10mm to stick some plastic on to cover the 4x2. What about leaving it so the trap is accessible without smashing all the panelling off at the bottom. The tray will have two edges open to the room so need panelling
Is that correct?
Yes, you can recess the wood slightly so you can use plastic trim or tiles to fit into the space and leave a gap in the wood to get access to the trap as the top will span over the gap. Use either capped screws or small dab of silicone to attach the trim/tile at the access point so it can be easily removed.
Thanks the issue would be it's a tray in the corner of the room so I would need to put two trims on. And likely a bit to cover the corner were the two trims meet. So I would have to remove that to remove the panel.
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