Shutting off water valve in toilet where no valve visible

[C0mbat]

The water inlet valve in my toilet cistern developed an issue where it wouldn't stop and the water would keep running. I tried to adjust the screw on top and I seem to have broke it as the water doesn't run at all now. So I ordered a new one from Amazon that I'm now trying to replace it with. However, I can't work out how to turn off the water in order to do the work. All online videos make it seem so easy as they suggest that there is a valve outside of the toilet but in my case I assume that it's in the wall at the bottom. See the attached photos.

How do I switch off the water? Help please.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

All online videos make it seem so easy as they suggest that there is a valve outside of the toilet but in my case I assume that it's in the wall at the bottom.

Thae assumption of there being an isolation valve, might simply be wrong. If it is mains water fed, then you could try turning the stop tap off.

 

[CountryFan]

That's been fitted against water regulations and there should be an isolation valve fitted. Maybe there is/was but is no longer accessible, which is against regs too. Check the other side of toilet as well.

If not, then as above, turn off the cold main if it's mains fed.

 

[Madrab]

Yeah, you may find that the flexi connects to the supply at an isolation valve behind the toilet, it been turned on and the toilet pushed back and secured. Of course it’s just as likely that there’s no valve at all.

In this case I would probably have just fitted a bent service (edit) valve

 

[C0mbat]

That's been fitted against water regulations and there should be an isolation valve fitted. Maybe there is/was but is no longer accessible, which is against regs too. Check the other side of toilet as well.

If not, then as above, turn off the cold main if it's mains fed.

Thanks @Harry Bloomfield, @Madrab ,and @Stuckinarut. There's nothing on the other side either. Is there space to fit an isolation valve when I'm doing the change over or is the space too tight?

 

[Madrab]

The pic of the valve I posted is potentially the only one that may fit in that space, fit the valve and still give access to the slot.

 

[CountryFan]

Thanks @Harry Bloomfield, @Madrab ,and @Stuckinarut. There's nothing on the other side either. Is there space to fit an isolation valve when I'm doing the change over or is the space too tight?

Being a bent flexi, you may be able to fit a service valve

 

[Rodders53]

To be frank, in a DIY situation, it's probably easier and quicker to isolate whole home.
Open cold tap to release pressure and swap the inlet valve.

Two of my toilets the isolation valve needs the arms of Twizzle to reach with both arms needed to feel for the slot while guiding it in to use. Far easier to just turn off the house.

It's not that often one needs to replace the inlet valve diaphragms (honest guv ).

Third toilet I ensured all water service isolators were accessible through holes in back panel or kick board removal of the units when the En-Suite was refurbished. (i.e. Shower, taps, toilet). Not needed them so far.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Two of my toilets the isolation valve needs the arms of Twizzle to reach with both arms needed to feel for the slot while guiding it in to use. Far easier to just turn off the house.

I keep a stock of iso valves, and whenever I find a need to turn the whole house of, to service something, I just cut the pipe somewhere convenient, and fit one. It means I can quickly get the water supply back on, and it's there for next time.

 

[dilalio]

When doing bathrooms that use all concealed brassware, especially back2wall bogs, I make sure the feed to the toilet comes from the vanity unit cold supply to basin tap and I put an isolator in there - it's hidden but accessible.

 

[C0mbat]

When doing bathrooms that use all concealed brassware, especially back2wall bogs, I make sure the feed to the toilet comes from the vanity unit cold supply to basin tap and I put an isolator in there - it's hidden but accessible.

Thanks. That's a good idea. I just checked that an I don't think they have done that in my case. It looks like they have isolation valves on both the cold and hot water feeds to the basin taps but neither seem to feed the toilet. See the photo.

I have, however, located the mains supply and am able to switch off water to the house so I should be good to go anyway.

 

[Alec_t]

Your post 11 pic seems to show a removable panel at the back. Could the shut-off valve be behind that?

 

[dilalio]

Your post 11 pic seems to show a removable panel at the back. Could the shut-off valve be behind that?

Eh?
Post 11 is a pic of the vanity unit connections!

 

[dilalio]

Thanks. That's a good idea. I just checked that an I don't think they have done that in my case. It looks like they have isolation valves on both the cold and hot water feeds to the basin taps but neither seem to feed the toilet. See the photo.

I have, however, located the mains supply and am able to switch off water to the house so I should be good to go anyway.

Tbf, inlet valves should all come with an isolator, like they do for most concealed cisterns... Would solve a lot of diaphragm issues easily!

 

[Alec_t]

Post 11 is a pic of the vanity unit connections!

Yes, but near the top there seem to be two removable tabs holding tiles/panel in place.