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Silly things

Yes indeed, miles of lead or copper, all connected and cross connected in every combination possible and circa 20,000 inhabitants so quite a few houses and all that soil surrounding a lot of the pipework and hopefully most premises connecting to an electrical earth terminal.
Indeed.
What better earthing system would you want?
Well, I suppose an explicit conductor all the way back to the transformer would be 'the best'. When installed, TN-S qualifies as that, but the sheath eventually rots - but an explicit extra core in the distribution cable would presumably last as long as the rest of the cable - and I imagine the only downside of that is 'cost'.
I`ve seen more than a few homes where you get a apparent good Ze until you disconnect that there "new fangled 6 or 10 mil bonding" and then the earth connection disappears/reduces.
As I've often said, my house is like that. Configured as TT, the Ze is actually around 0.25Ω - but rises to 50-75 Ω (depending on how wet the ground is) if I disconnect the bond to the incoming water pipe. I've always suspected/assumed that that is primary due to a connection via the water pipe and bonding to my next-door-neighbour's TN-C-S installation. Although most of the distribution pipework with the (very small - about 200 dwellings) village is still metal, the pipework to the village has seemingly been replaced with plastic - so my local network of underground water pipes is not massive (and we have no piped gas).

Kind Regards, John
 
Well a small cranked screwdriver to open the fuseholder - on a short string for readiness?

Or put the FCUs upside down to make fuse access simpler?
on the other side of the cabinet
 
on the other side of the cabinet
Providing there is room, I was imagining it was to a wall by the look of the pick but it might be my eyes though. Yes it would have been better if there is room to do it, no need for the screwdriver either.
 
on the other side of the cabinet
neff wall.jpg
 
Providing there is room, I was imagining it was to a wall by the look of the pick but it might be my eyes though. Yes it would have been better if there is room to do it, no need for the screwdriver either.
I didn't actually look and quite honestly I was being flippant anyway.

In reality the correct answer is to use different FCU's such as the MK's with a locking screw perhaps?
 
If the were other handed would help but I think they all the same, I don't like MK anyway although sometimes that tiny screw can be a bad thing or sometimes a good thing.

Mind you another irk can be plugtop fuses, some have a little captive loop that pulls the fuse out of the holder, good, but then the holder gets lost so the fuse goes in with no holder which OK the terminals should only be live when the plug is in the socket but I still have an aversion to it.
Quirks and Irks can be funny things sometime
 
The induction hob is 7kW, so the fuse was replaced with a nail?
OK, realise a joke, but I remember the Lucas 2TU 7 pin trailer socket relay, and a lump of aluminium replaced the fuse, as it was fused else where.

An induction hob uses less energy to a resistive hob, so if a cooker with duel ovens and four resistive hobs, can run on a 32 amp supply, then clearly an induction hob can run on less.

Peak may be 7 kW, but unlikely to run on peak for long, I used a Lidi induction hob in my mothers house, as the halogen hob was so slow, the default with the induction was 1 kW, it would turn up to 2 kW, but in the main we turned it down.
 

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