Size of Timber for lean to roof

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Hi everyone,

I wonder if anyone might be able to offer some assitance with sizing some timbers for me.

I am building a lean to roof to cover an outside terraced area. The design is as follows

4m(including 20cm overhang)x8.6m overall covered area
2 concrete posts (30cmx30cm)
I am planning to add a single large wood post in the center of the gap between the concrete posts.

The roof will be covered in shiplap timber and then tiles ontop.

Woudl you be able to give me some idea of what pitch the roof needs to be and the dimesions of the wood(rafters, wall plate etc). I dont want to go over the top as wood is very expensive in portugal

Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer
Simon
 
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4b2 from the pillers the rafters will give strength when birds mouth cuts sit on timber going from pillers
 
Great thanks for that info thats most helpful. I didnt realase i could get away with that size for a 4m span and tiles on top thats great news.Thanks

I was thinking of putting the rafters at 60cm centers?

also would 4 x 4 be bigger enough to span the 8.4m distance between the 2 concrete pillars and 4 x 4 for the extra post in the center or do i need bigger?

Thanks again for all your help its most appreciated
 
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wallplate 6b2 drilled and bolted
4b2 rafters

Dreadful advice those rafters are way undersized. They should be at least around 175X50 at 400 centres. 4X2's are barely good for a 2m span! :rolleyes:

I'm no structural engineer so I'd guess that a 4x4 may be ok for the column, You should be looking at something like 200X50's for the beams taking the lower ends of the rafters though.

Your thread would get better response in the Building Section. Why the mods don't realise this and have to be prompted I'll never know.! :rolleyes: :LOL:
 
Wouldnt normally post on a foreign thread, as ive no idea of what the requirements in portugal are.. but as freddy says those sizes are massively shy.. its rare to see anything stated on here that would actually fail in real life.. but dont put in 4x2s for a 4m span

Might wanna look more at 50x200s at 400 centres especially with tiles on the car port.. might even consider upping that if your up in the mountains..

Cut the eaves beam span down to 3m or so and you can use a couple of 50x225 members bolted together.. again up these a size if your in the mountains..

100squ posts should be fine, but would be best to put in a couple of diagonal struts near the top of the posts to take away any lateral movement in such a large car port.. something like 750mm long struts at 45deg each side..

Are you using concrete tiles?

Pretty sure this was on the building forum at some point.. or something similar
 
thanks for all the info, its very helpful.

I have attempted many things but have never built a roof from scratch so appreciate advice form the experts

i am not sure if the tiles are made of clay or concrete.

the guy at the wood yard said to use 10 x 20cm for the cross beam and 8 x 16cm for the rafters he also said to use metal brackets instead of a wall plates. I did'nt have the confidence that he knew what he was talking about

thanks :D :D
 
Simon, Read your last post and, feel that this roof is way beyond what you will manage, however will try to elaborate on the advice already given , and explain your problems, but remember we are talking U.K regulations. Have no idea how you work in Portugal. Sizes are all based on max dead load 0.75kNM2.
Guidance is based on overall length 8.6metre, and overall span 4metre with 200mm overhang. Two concrete posts, one each end, and intention of fitting wooden post in centre. No other supporting walls except wall you intend to lean against.
Firstly, one intermediate post would be insufficient, would suggest two number at approx 2.150 centres. with 1.350x100x100 concrete spur bolted front and back, to support wooden bressummer over the 8.600 run length.
After saying that, would feel a lot happier with 100mm box section with plate top and bottom.
You need two, 50xx225mm bolted together with bulldog connectors to form wooden bressummer stood on edge and oblique scarf jointed over each intermediate post
Pitch will be at your discretion, and depending on what type of tile you are using, could be anywhere between 22.5 and 45 degrees
Say 22.5 degree pitch, length of rafter will be from top cut to plumb cut at seat 4.208m long and even working on 50x150 rafters at 400mm centres, they will need a purlin mid span.
4.208 plus overhang makes length of commons 4.5m long, which length you will find hard to source. Your next problem is you have no end walls to support purlin, This can be overcome the old fashioned way, by making up 4 number half TDA trusses with stub toe for building in. One each end and two intermediates to support purlin. Purlin would need to be somewhere in region of 75x225mm.With the centre span purlin you can reduce your common rafters down to 50x100 and use two lengths 50x100 either overlapped or scarfed on top of purlin. but you will need to add blocking plate to bressummer in between T.D.As to obtain H.A.P. for your birdsmouth to match plane of T.D.As. Ditto to purlin.
Even though your run of rafter is a good length, it is still possible to make up TDAs with spliced joints to reduce length of main rafters.
Strap bressummer down well to stanchions with twisted heavy duty restraint each side. With no ends and high wind , whole roof could move. Triangulate bressummer with TDAs. and ditto to stanchions. Triangulate and brace whole roof with 25x100 to underside of rafters above and below purlin.
You will have 4 couples with your TDAs, but would suggest couple every other rafter, unless of course you want ceiling of some sort, then couple every rafter with 47x100 at 400mm centres with 50x175mm mid span binder hung on TDAs. Do not understand why you want shiplap boarding on top of commons.
It is a very easy traditional cut and pitch, but there are problems unless you do not fully understand roofing. Assume you have no idea what I have been talking about, but show it to any chippie who knows cut roofs and he will understand what I mean.
Suggest think along lines of engineered I beams or glulam beams, but you will need someone to design them for you, and they will not work out any cheaper.
Better still, and by far the cheapest, feel sure that you must have truss manufacturers in Portugal. Contact one of them and they will design and quote you for a half trussed roof with stub toe to bottom chord. Sorry that I have thrown so many problems at you, and have not been much help. For guidance only. old un.
 
Old un
Superb descriptive post. You`ll be right tho` not a DIY read. A lot of the old school portugese builders would have used full tree limbs bark and all, the idea of shiplap would come from the traditional cloaking with a vee groove match board so you dont see lath and tile from under. I dont think OP realises how heavy this roofs going to be.
 
I don't think it was mentioned to make sure the foot of the stanchions is also tied into the foundation pads. A roof of this size could also lift the stanchions too if there is no connection at the foot.
A great post oldun. Wish I had the time for such lengthy replies. Maybe you should consider writing a book on building construction :)
 

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