Skimming in the kitchen

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I can upload photos if required but i don't think it'll be necessary...

We removed that vinyl like wallpaper from our kitchen (you know - that old square stuff) to reveal a level skimmed wall behind it which we plan on cleaning up & painting.

As we progressed through the de-wallpapering, in sections it hadn't been skimmed smooth. There was some sort of yellow coating behind it.

So basically we want this skimmed so it looks like the rest of the walls & can be painted & look 'as one'.

It's only a small area & it's proving difficult to get a plasterer out, never mind for such a small job.

A relative of mine has done quite a bit of plastering in his time & is going to help out. He wont accept payment but i don't like to just take freebies.


Since i work for a builders merchant & i can get various plaster as there's many burst bags etc i'd like to provide the required materials & he just does the work.



So is it JUST Multifinish i will need or is there anything required to go under this?
Just basically finding out what i'll need for such a job so i can provide it.
 
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Materials required would be a small tub of PVA to prime the walls and multi-finish.
One 25kg bag of multi-finish would cover approx 6sqm for a two coat application.
If there is any damage of excessively deep areas, a base bonding coat maybe required to repair/even out.

If there are any external angles or window reveals, then you will require some thin coat angle beads for these angles, they come in 2.4m and 3.00m lengths.

The PVA will require diluting and two coats applying, the first coat should be allowed to completely dry. So this maybe something you can do in preparation for your relatives arrival. The PVA first coat should be diluted 1 PVA to 3 water and applied to the wall to be plastered, this dilution can be applied by either brush or roller, I would suggest protecting the nearby area from splashes, drips and runs. Any loose/flaky plaster should be removed prior to priming wall, cover the whole area.
 
Thanks very much. 1 bag of multi should be more than enough then.


This relative of mine has done some work for my mum before. In sections the plaster has cracked. Not massively, we're talking about hairline.

Is it inevitable for plaster to crack or is this likely just poor workmanship (he's no professional plasterer, but has just done plenty of it)?
 
cracks are usually because it's drying too quickly, if on plasterboard it could be scrim tape hasn't been put on, i think it can happen if the mix isn't right too. Easily fixed though and not a big problem.

Burst bags of multi - I'm guessing you know but never use stuff that's been swept up after spillage, bits of grit ruin the the finish. I made the mistake once
 
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Yeah we have plenty of burst bags. I wouldn't use sweepings but thanks for the tip all the same.

Also good point - when he did the stairs wall at my mums, she put the dehumidifier on immediately to dry it out which i've since learned is a big no-no.
 
Is it inevitable for plaster to crack or is this likely just poor workmanship (he's no professional plasterer, but has just done plenty of it)?

Over the plasterers life it is most probably inevitable for cracks to appear.
But this is not something that should occur for a number of years, if the cracks appear very shortly after application this cold be down to an number of reasons.
*Poor preparation, the walls require priming with PVA, some walls require to loaded with this more than others, standards would suggests a 2 coat application but some walls are very dry and suction is excess to normal, so always worth going overboard on the number of application for these walls when priming, may an extra coat or two. Even the taping of existing cracks would be wise prior to skimming.
*Poor water content in the plasters mix, if the plaster mix is not consistent and mixed correctly this will also produce cracks
*A bad bag, a bag of plaster that has past it's usable date will also have this effect.
*Poor application. with the plaster does not apply the plaster correctly by underworking/overworking
*Then there is alway the actual suitability of the surface, if the base surface is failing and decaying, you will have problems, this is best removed.
 

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