in my new house there all like a orangey colour is this stained wood ? if so would they need sanding before i gloss them white ? cheers
Skirting boards
- Thread starter Newbie1986
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hi
I presume that it's solid wood rather than MDF if it has been stained.
If so yes you'll need to sand before applying knotting to seal the knots, prime, undercoat and then gloss, with a light sanding between coats
Andy
I presume that it's solid wood rather than MDF if it has been stained.
If so yes you'll need to sand before applying knotting to seal the knots, prime, undercoat and then gloss, with a light sanding between coats
Andy
cheers is this easy to do by hand or not?
Possibly a pine wood stain.It turns timber an orangy colour.
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yes, pretty straightforward.
start with 120 grit paper on the stained wood. You'll have to use your own judgement as to the amount of initial sanding required, run your fingers along it - it should be smooth. 180 grit between coats, only a light sanding to provide a key.
A sponge sanding block is very useful for the profiled bits, as its very easy to remove the paint completely from any edges.
Ensure paint is completely dry before sanding or you'll make a mess - especially with oil based finishes. Wipe down with a damp cloth to remove dust
start with 120 grit paper on the stained wood. You'll have to use your own judgement as to the amount of initial sanding required, run your fingers along it - it should be smooth. 180 grit between coats, only a light sanding to provide a key.
A sponge sanding block is very useful for the profiled bits, as its very easy to remove the paint completely from any edges.
Ensure paint is completely dry before sanding or you'll make a mess - especially with oil based finishes. Wipe down with a damp cloth to remove dust
As you say it is orange, I think it is unlikely to be hardwood (although possible) but rather a stained pine, as mentioned.
Some oil based stains can occasionally bleed through the surface of water based paints after they have been rubbed down, as can the natural oils in hardwoods.
If you intend using a water based primer/undercoat and find this happening when you start to apply it, then it would be wise to switch to an oil based primer or aluminium wood primer. You can then use a water based undercoat and gloss if you prefer, although I would recommend oil/solvent based.
Otherwise, the advice already given is good.
Some oil based stains can occasionally bleed through the surface of water based paints after they have been rubbed down, as can the natural oils in hardwoods.
If you intend using a water based primer/undercoat and find this happening when you start to apply it, then it would be wise to switch to an oil based primer or aluminium wood primer. You can then use a water based undercoat and gloss if you prefer, although I would recommend oil/solvent based.
Otherwise, the advice already given is good.
ok once i have them sanded whats the best way to get them needing only one coat gloss or normal wood paint? plus any good deals on emulsion etc anywere now?
The basic steps for painting woodwork are primer, undercoat and top coat.
You can buy paints that either prime & undercoat or undercoat and top coat in one coat.
So, you will have to apply a minimum of 2 coats anyway, maybe more depending on how well it covers. There's no such product that can provide the final finish in one coat.
You don't want emulsion!!, You need gloss/satin/eggshell for the top coat
You can buy paints that either prime & undercoat or undercoat and top coat in one coat.
So, you will have to apply a minimum of 2 coats anyway, maybe more depending on how well it covers. There's no such product that can provide the final finish in one coat.
You don't want emulsion!!, You need gloss/satin/eggshell for the top coat
The simplest way is to use either Zinsser B-I-N primer, which seals knots and stains or aluminium wood primer (more for hardwoods really though), which basically does the same and is cheaper but takes a fair bit longer to dry. If you then use a one coat gloss which has a built-in undercoat (Crown Solo, for example), that is often all that is required.
Just remember the light sanding between primer and topcoat.
Just remember the light sanding between primer and topcoat.
ok cheers and i wanted emulsion for the walls so just wondered if there was any deals out and about. so sand, primer, sand and then a gloss with undercoat to finish?
Exactly.
There are usually offers on at DIY stores for the large tubs of white and magnolia (usually non-vinyl, which can often give a better finish) but when it comes to specific brands and colours, you will just have to see when you get there.
I always use trade paints from a merchants so can't say what's on offer elsewhere.
J
joinerjohn
Iv'e never heard of a paint that serves as both undercoat and top coat in one. Where would one buy such a product??
I would suggest always using a good brand like Dulux or Crown, have tried many cheaper alternatives including johnstones recently and it took 5 coats to achieve the same coverage as one coat of Dulux white emulsion on my ceilings.
i only want the emulsion to brighten up the magnolia that is already in there so cheap will probably be ok in this case?
Iv'e never heard of a paint that serves as both undercoat and top coat in one. Where would one buy such a product??
Dulux Once and Crown Solo, amongst others, are all 'self-undercoating' and require no seperate undercoat. Even shops' own-brand one coat glosses have similar properties.
I still prefer seperate layers, finished with a liquid gloss, for an absolutely glass smooth finish though.
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