Slow leaking Push Button Toilet Problem?

[Mandala72]

Hi

Have a top push buttomn toilet which has started hissing with a slow leak into the toliet bowl. This occured just after a new water meter was fitted outside (coincidence i guess).


Ive tried adjusting the height of the ball cock up and down to no effect. Even gently manually lifting it up doesnt stop the hiss or the slow leak into the toilet bowl.

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• Mandala72
• 21 Jan 2010
• 1

So could someone give me a few pointers please?

Cheers

 

[Rico99]

Hi there,

On your picture you have said its split is that right ?

If not, isolate the water to the fill valve.

Undo the big blue nut and check the washer, its either split or has some grit stuck in it.

Rico

 

[Burnerman]

If the water flow stops if you lift the valve up, screw the float a little further down on its shaft - this will cut the water off sooner.
John

 

[Mandala72]

Yes Rico

it appears split in 2 places

How do i isolate the water to the fill valve, turn the water off at the main stop cock?

Cheers

 

[Rico99]

JOhn,

OP said it doesnt stop when they manually lift the valve.

Rico

 

[Rico99]

Is it just the plastic bag thing thats split.

You should either have an isolation valver under the cistern, if not you will have to turn of your main stopcock.

Rico

 

[jobloggs]

splits are in the thin plastic tube which delivers water to bottom of systern to cut noise of splashing. It has no effect on your problem. The meter fitting has probably introduced some grit which has been carried to valve so as previous reply said take inlet valve apart by removing blue nut. Open isolating valve to run water through valve to flush before reassembling. Take careful note of arrangement when dismantling so that you can reassemble.

 

[Burnerman]

JOhn,

OP said it doesnt stop when they manually lift the valve.

Rico

Ooops Guilty of not fully reading the post! Cheers!
John

 

[Rico99]

 

[Mandala72]

Turned off water and unscrewed blu nut,

Washer inside looks ok, cleaned a little dirt off.

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• Mandala72
• 21 Jan 2010
• 1

Put it all back and it seems to be doing the same thing again.

If i need to repalce it, what part name am i looking for, can i replace just the section after the blu cap?

Cheers

 

[Rico99]

Hi there,

It could be just as easy to change the whole valve, which I would do anyway in my opion.

Get down to your local plumb center and ask them for a fluidmaster pro series bottom entry valve.

This has a brass thread so you cant easilt cross thread when reconnecting.

Quiet as a mouse and virtualy bullet proof.

Rico

 

[Mandala72]

Cheers Rico

Would you recommend any sealant when fitting it, i notice the original seems to have a little white glue/cauking where the pipe sticks up from the bottom of the tank?

Also is it ok to leave the water turned off at the stop cock overnight, to prevent too much water leaking out,. That wouldn't effect the central heating system would it (i assume central heating systems are closed system)

 

[Rico99]

Hi there,

Leaving stopcock off will be OK.

NO sealant required, just use the washers that come with the new valve.

Also may as well get yourself an isolation valve while you're there so you can stop water locally if needed.

Rico

 

[sturmey]

Hate Torbecks for this reason. They seem to resist all attempts at repairing them. Sometimes they don't shut off even when new.

 

[Mandala72]

Just to say thanks Rico and all, for the advice

Couldn't get the exact part you suggested but got a new valve, fitted it fine and all is well again