Socket is going to be hidden behind cupboard.

[dave_104]

Hi,
I’m building a cupboard and there’s a double socket (on a ring) that’s going to be hidden behind it, which is a problem when it comes to maintenance and accessibility of that socket. I’d also like to take advantage and run a flex out to a new socket installed on the side of the cupboard.
I’m thinking that using wagos (as a maintenance free item) that I could simply join the ring and run a flex out to the new socket, however I’m unable to find a double blanking plate with flex outlet. Does anyone know if they exist and if that’s the right way to do it?
Converting the double backbox (fitted into insulated plasterboard) to a 1+1 backbox could be done, but then would I need to use a spur switch (which would also need means of access for maintenance)?

Thanks, Dave

 

[winston1]

Hi,
I’m building a cupboard and there’s a double socket (on a ring) that’s going to be hidden behind it, which is a problem when it comes to maintenance and accessibility of that socket.

Cut a suitable hole in the back of the cupboard.

. I’d also like to take advantage and run a flex out to a new socket installed on the side of the cupboard.
I’m thinking that using wagos (as a maintenance free item) that I could simply join the ring and run a flex out to the new socket, however I’m unable to find a double blanking plate with flex outlet.

Drill a hole in a blank plate and fit a gland.

Does anyone know if they exist and if that’s the right way to do it?
Converting the double backbox (fitted into insulated plasterboard) to a 1+1 backbox could be done, but then would I need to use a spur switch (which would also need means of access for maintenance)?

Thanks, Dave

 

[dave_104]

Can't cut a hole as a shelf needs to go slap bang across the socket, and shelf height can't be changed.
What type of gland did you mean? like just an open grommet with a tie wrap to strain relief the cable (not sure if that's allowable?) or a compression gland?

 

[winston1]

Compression gland.

 

[dave_104]

Gotcha, thanks very much Winston!

 

[bernardgreen]

Can't cut a hole as a shelf needs to go slap bang across the socket, and shelf height can't be changed.

Have you considered making the shelf removable and fitted with a dummy wall that covers the hole in the real wall.

 

[markyd1]

Wago's are only maintenance free when used with a suitable junction box, If your building a wardrobe why not lift the floorboards and do your join under them and then route up to new socket

 

[dave_104]

Thanks for all your replies!
Normally I would consider making an access panel of some sort or removable shelf, but the cupboard is really small and I wouldn't like to be the one twisting my back at all sorts of angles to squeeze in there to check the wiring of a socket. Plus also the wires come from above and the floor is concrete so that's unfortunately ruled out too.
I didn't want to overcomplicate something seemingly so simple but it either seems the gland idea (which means the gland pokes out a bit especially when allowing not too tight a bend on the cable), or else I reckon change the backbox for a 1+1 and fit one standard blank plate and one flex outlet blank plate.
As I'm connecting just one socket radially I don't think a spur switch is required?
It's just a shame I can't find a double blank plate with flex outlet that runs downwards, as to me that seems the simplest option.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

Get a thick blanking plate and file a slot in the edge so that the cable exits down/up/sideways to suit. neater than a plate with a gland on it

 

[sparkwright]

You could get a 4 gang grid plate, fit three blank modules, and one flex outlet module.

And use 2.5mm2 3 core flex.

Or if you only have the more usual 1.5mm2 3 core flex, use the grid plate, two blank modules, a 13 amp fuse module, and a flex outlet module.