Socket/light next to consumer unit

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Hi all
My consumer unit is under the stairs and I need a light switch and socket in the same cupboard ... How difficult would it be to do this based on the attached pic.
Thanks
 

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Hi, not difficult at all. Get an electrican to give you a quote.

Regards,

DS
 
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Easy peasy. Just take a bit of 1.0mm² twin+earth to a switch, live through the switch, connector block neutral + earth (sleeve this too). Then take the T+E to the light fitting.

You will then need to connect this into the breaker for the downstairs lights - that's where you may come unstuck, if you're not confident working in a consumer unit, you might be better off getting a battery powered LED light
 
Easy peasy. Just take a bit of 1.0mm² twin+earth to a switch, live through the switch, connector block neutral + earth (sleeve this too). Then take the T+E to the light fitting.

You will then need to connect this into the breaker for the downstairs lights - that's where you may come unstuck, if you're not confident working in a consumer unit, you might be better off getting a battery powered LED light

Thanks, and for the socket?
 
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Well the same procedure, but with 2.5mm t+e and one of the socket circuits.

Are you confident enough to work in a consumer unit? No offence, but I suspect not.
 
Easy peasy. Just take a bit of 1.0mm² twin+earth to a switch, live through the switch, connector block neutral + earth (sleeve this too). Then take the T+E to the light fitting.

You will then need to connect this into the breaker for the downstairs lights - that's where you may come unstuck, if you're not confident working in a consumer unit, you might be better off getting a battery powered LED light

I always use the upstairs breaker. Reason if downstairs trips you can't see what you are doing if you use this. The other way if the upstairs trips you can at least get some light through the door.
 
Yea this is true. I generally use an EM fitting, either separately or a switched one - win win that way,

I'd like to see the understairs light and/or breaker well labelled with your solution though
 
Well the same procedure, but with 2.5mm t+e and one of the socket circuits.

Are you confident enough to work in a consumer unit? No offence, but I suspect not.

No, I know my limits!

I'm asking because I've had a few quotes and also had a few not return phone calls I assume because it's a small job but wasn't sure what was involved
 
Yea this is true. I generally use an EM fitting, either separately or a switched one - win win that way,
A neat trick for a light in an understairs cupboard like that is to use an EM one, with the switch wired "upside down", so when you go to switch it on you're actually turning off the power to it and the battery kicks in. It means that if the lighting circuit fails you have light by the CU to see what's what, and the rest of the time you have what acts like a normal switched light.
 
You can even buy new amendment 3 consumer boards with a battery operated emergency light in them, running off standard AA duracell batteries.
 
A neat trick for a light in an understairs cupboard like that is to use an EM one, with the switch wired "upside down", so when you go to switch it on you're actually turning off the power to it and the battery kicks in. It means that if the lighting circuit fails you have light by the CU to see what's what, and the rest of the time you have what acts like a normal switched light.
One problem with that approach is that if (as seems a common problem with within-cupboard lights, judging by what we hear!), people forget to turn off that light (i.e. turn the supply back on), the battery will go flat quite quickly.

Kind Regards, John
 
A neat trick for a light in an understairs cupboard like that is to use an EM one, with the switch wired "upside down", so when you go to switch it on you're actually turning off the power to it and the battery kicks in. It means that if the lighting circuit fails you have light by the CU to see what's what, and the rest of the time you have what acts like a normal switched light.

I don't like it... its a bodge in my eyes and I'd argue it does not comply with 134.1.1. It would also fail to comply with BS5266 because of the reason John sets out. Although I guess this will open a can of worms as someone will tell me that this is a moot point because a domestic does not need EM lighting. I would argue that while it does not need to be fitted, any that is, should be compliant.

Just fit a switched maintained fitting FGS.
 
Other than proving the battery is operational…….. perhaps as an emergency light this would be an advantage.

Regards,

DS
 
Other than proving the battery is operational…….. perhaps as an emergency light this would be an advantage.
True - but the issue I previously mentioned means that the act of 'proving the battery is operational' (at the time of the 'test') increases the risk that the battery would not be 'operational' if/when it was needed 'in anger'.

Kind Regards, John
 

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