Easy peasy. Just take a bit of 1.0mm² twin+earth to a switch, live through the switch, connector block neutral + earth (sleeve this too). Then take the T+E to the light fitting.
You will then need to connect this into the breaker for the downstairs lights - that's where you may come unstuck, if you're not confident working in a consumer unit, you might be better off getting a battery powered LED light
Easy peasy. Just take a bit of 1.0mm² twin+earth to a switch, live through the switch, connector block neutral + earth (sleeve this too). Then take the T+E to the light fitting.
You will then need to connect this into the breaker for the downstairs lights - that's where you may come unstuck, if you're not confident working in a consumer unit, you might be better off getting a battery powered LED light
Well the same procedure, but with 2.5mm t+e and one of the socket circuits.
Are you confident enough to work in a consumer unit? No offence, but I suspect not.
A neat trick for a light in an understairs cupboard like that is to use an EM one, with the switch wired "upside down", so when you go to switch it on you're actually turning off the power to it and the battery kicks in. It means that if the lighting circuit fails you have light by the CU to see what's what, and the rest of the time you have what acts like a normal switched light.Yea this is true. I generally use an EM fitting, either separately or a switched one - win win that way,
One problem with that approach is that if (as seems a common problem with within-cupboard lights, judging by what we hear!), people forget to turn off that light (i.e. turn the supply back on), the battery will go flat quite quickly.A neat trick for a light in an understairs cupboard like that is to use an EM one, with the switch wired "upside down", so when you go to switch it on you're actually turning off the power to it and the battery kicks in. It means that if the lighting circuit fails you have light by the CU to see what's what, and the rest of the time you have what acts like a normal switched light.
A neat trick for a light in an understairs cupboard like that is to use an EM one, with the switch wired "upside down", so when you go to switch it on you're actually turning off the power to it and the battery kicks in. It means that if the lighting circuit fails you have light by the CU to see what's what, and the rest of the time you have what acts like a normal switched light.
Quite so - I can think of no advantage that 'the alternative' has over that.Just fit a switched maintained fitting FGS.
True - but the issue I previously mentioned means that the act of 'proving the battery is operational' (at the time of the 'test') increases the risk that the battery would not be 'operational' if/when it was needed 'in anger'.Other than proving the battery is operational…….. perhaps as an emergency light this would be an advantage.
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