Socket trouble

[Tony Morse]

Hi, i fitted new sockets, and took pictures of the sockets before i did it, just so i had a reference when putting them back together, i bought two switches from Screwfix with built in lights, but when i wired them the same as what they were, on both sockets, they lights stayed on, anyway i checked a forum and they said the light was in the wrong place, or switch upside down, so i don'e my cooker switch and it was fine, it now switches on and of with the light shower as it should, but the two other sockets area nightmare, i thought i did one socket, and the light switches on and off, the i have to switch on my Tumble drying switch to get the kettle to boil?? so obviously it's wrong now, any help would be good, i have a picture i have added just showing where they join up, and the lives. thanks

 

[winston1]

You have obviously made some working errors which will need some test gear to sort out. Can’t see how we on a forum can see where without some pictures of the wiring.

But why do you want additional switches for the sockets anyway? The sockets already have switches built in.

 

[Tony Morse]

Hi winston1, thanks for the reply, what i have tried to do, is replace the existing, back boxes and switches for newer ones, the only switches i could get to suit the back boxes(rounded) was these switches, so all i have done is just reconnect it all back up how it was, or so i thought, now the lights are staying on on the switches, not clicking on and off as they should to show the lights on the switches going on and off, the lights just stay on, i thought i sorted one of them out, but now the socket where the kettle is don't work until i put the switch on for the tumble dryer switch, would it be better if i open all sockets to expose the wiring and then post them??, thanks

 

[SUNRAY]

I feel I'll regret getting involved with this one.

What did those switches control before the changes?
What switches do you want to remain?
What do you want those switches to control?
Where any of those sockets pictured controlled by switches prior to the changes?

I'll predict some items before changes:
A. is cooker
C. is just central heating
1&2&3 were always on

What sort of circuit is this [ring or radial] and what size MCB or fuse?

Yes please, more pictures of the wiring of switches and sockets, especially those which don't work as expected.

 

[bernardgreen]

Sunray.

Good luck....

 

[SUNRAY]

Sunray.

Good luck....

Yeah the first line was my first edit...

 

[Tony Morse]

I feel I'll regret getting involved with this one.

What did those switches control before the changes?
What switches do you want to remain?
What do you want those switches to control?
Where any of those sockets pictured controlled by switches prior to the changes?
View attachment 204978
I'll predict some items before changes:
A. is cooker
C. is just central heating
1&2&3 were always on

What sort of circuit is this [ring or radial] and what size MCB or fuse?

Hi, i think maybe you're right, so, is there a way i can the switches with the light on work properly? or just disconnect them? everything works now, it's just the lights staying on on the switches. thanks

 

[SUNRAY]

Most 2 pole switches are marked (L & N )or (L in & N in) or (1 & 2) for the incoming supply and (L load & N load) or (L out & N out) or (1' & 2') or (3 & 4) for the switched output.

Does that help?

It is possible you have purchased switches with the light on the incoming supply side (so it displays power is available and shows in the dark)
If that is the case I'll offer advice later.

 

[Tony Morse]

Ok, sorry for the delay, i had some chors to do, here are some pictures before and after i done the re wiring, i hope it helps and i haven't made it too difficult to understand, would it matter if i have another loop cable that runs a fan is not connected ?? thanks

 

[Tony Morse]

Most 2 pole switches are marked (L & N )or (L in & N in) or (1 & 2) for the incoming supply and (L load & N load) or (L out & N out) or (1' & 2') or (3 & 4) for the switched output.

Does that help?

It is possible you have purchased switches with the light on the incoming supply side (so it displays power is available and shows in the dark)
If that is the case I'll offer advice later.

Haha it may help when i am able to take that in my brain slowly, so will the incoming supply be the live that is looped from the CU be the in? and the rest will be out ? thanks

 

[SUNRAY]

Haha it may help when i am able to take that in my brain slowly, so will the incoming supply be the live that is looped from the CU be the in? and the rest will be out ? thanks

Yes

What are the markings:
of the terminals by the red arrows?
and the other 2 terminals?

What make are the switches?

 

[Tony Morse]

Hi thanks for the reply, the black wires are to light the Led light up in the switch, the brand is Schneider Switches from Screwfix, i had to buy these as it was the only ones that they had that were rounded and matched the back boxes, i took the other wires out the L2 to get the shot of all markings, and the light that lights up, i changes the terminals around for polarity, but it still stayed on, i can disconnect it, or even take it out the switch thanks

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...UKEwi1ntuDoe7rAhUlpnEKHRFzAGsQkeECKAB6BAgNECc

 

[EFLImpudence]

Surely you just need to swap the Browns and Blues.

In and out must be the wrong way round.

 

[Tony Morse]

Haha which ones, into what holes? i swapped the wires around in this switch until i got the light to switch on and off, but then my kettle would only work which is the socket opposite next to the cooker switch, unless i switched this switch on that works the Tumble Dryer, so i really don't know, I've saw the in now, at the top of the switch, so does that mean that where the main power goes, then the rest goes out? and can only go in the remaining holes?? i'm not a sparky, so just learning, and would imagine that if this is not right, then the boiler one could also be wrong, and have a negative effect on each other if the wiring is not done properly on both, i have checked against the old wiring and it seems correct??. thanks

 

[SUNRAY]

Haha it may help when i am able to take that in my brain slowly, so will the incoming supply be the live that is looped from the CU be the in? and the rest will be out ? thanks

Your markings are

L1 & N1 are power in [from consumer unit]

L2 & N2 are out [to load]