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Sockets aren't working (Ed.)

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Hi my sockets for the dining stopped working if I try any it doesn't power my devices, a drill was checked, a TV and a charger still no power. Any thing I can do nothing was done recently except from a new washing machine which is not related.
 
First, you need to check if anything tripped in the fuseboard. Send a picture of the fuseboard.

Do only the dining room sockets don't work or has anything else been affected too?
 
Thank you for the reply yes I have checked if anything has tripped but nothing tripped every breaker is in the usual turned on position and as far as I am aware only the dining room sockets are not working at the mo.
 
Ok thank you stuckinarut and jurassicsparks I will try seeing again also should I have neutral to earth continuity on multimeter?
 
also should I have neutral to earth continuity on multimeter?
With the main switch closed, you should be able to see N-E continuity or very low ohms depends on the earthing arrangement.

With the main switch open, there shouldn't be neutral to earth continuity. If there is, that suggests there is a fault within the installation, which will need rectifying.

However this test is meaningless as there will be a small potential difference from both conductors, which will skew the reading.

And you shouldn't be measuring continuity on a live circuit.
 
In the main ring finals, are supplied by 32 amp MCB/RCBO, and radials smaller ones often 16 to 20, with a ring final, normally multi-rooms supplied, but a radial may only supply one room, so it seems likely looking at a radial. However, where rooms are added, or there is a change of use, you can get fused spurs, and these can be supplied from a fused connection unit.
1750947640610.png
My guess is somewhere there is a FCU like shown with a blown fuse, but pictures of the consumer unit/fuse box would have helped work out what is likely there.
 
In the main ring finals, are supplied by 32 amp MCB/RCBO, and radials smaller ones often 16 to 20, with a ring final, normally multi-rooms supplied, but a radial may only supply one room, so it seems likely looking at a radial. However, where rooms are added, or there is a change of use, you can get fused spurs, and these can be supplied from a fused connection unit. View attachment 385403 My guess is somewhere there is a FCU like shown with a blown fuse, but pictures of the consumer unit/fuse box would have helped work out what is likely there.
There is one of them above but to check it do I just remove the fuse and insert the same specification one?
 
There is one of them above but to check it do I just remove the fuse and insert the same specification one?

Better to check the fuse's continuity, if you have a meter, but if not - just swap it for a new one, of the same current rating.
 
There is one of them above but to check it do I just remove the fuse and insert the same specification one?
One of them for the kitchen appliances?

One of then for a heater?

One of them for a boiler?

Where is this FCU? One controlling sockets for a dining room is a bit strange unless if it's supplying a spur off a spur which will then require one but it won't answer why all of the sockets aren't working.
 
There is one of them above but to check it do I just remove the fuse and insert the same specification one?
That's the simple way. My fathers-in-law's dinning room was an added extra room, and there was only a fused spur feeding it. My father's kitchen it seems only had one socket as original when built in 1954, and he had added socket after socket using FCU since that time.

Today, there are normally as many sockets in a kitchen as in 1954 there were in the whole house, we tend to forget what it was like.

I am used to using a tester Diffrence line neutral 8 Feb 24 reduced.jpg and find it hard to think of methods not needing a tester to find what is wrong.
 

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