Soil pipe relocation and connection? advice please

[JayHS]

looking at re locating the soil pipe from which the downstairs bathroom wc + sink run from.

i do not plan to do the work myself unless I am allowed too?
and also is this a building regs notice? for doing the work or having it done


whoever lived here before relocated the toilet from the old position to where it is now, but they never did the hard graft and re located the waste pipe! so every now and then it can block up, mostly due to our youngest dropping small toys down the wc lol.
so we would really like to relocate the pipe for ease of un blocking should we or anyone else in the future ever need too, and maybe also fitting an access point for un blocking.

we are looking at doing some sort of brick/slab right on top of where the new pipe might go, so i would like to look at doing the soil pipe first.

so my question is this, how do i go about linking up onto a main sewerage pipe that has a number of houses connected to it further up the way, whilst not shutting it off whilst the work is being done?

is there a simple item to get like a soil pipe adaptor that pushes into a hole drilled into the main soil runoff? that i can stick on the end of the new waste/soil from the new WC pipe i will be having in the future? or will a T section need to be inserted inline with the original main soil soak away

have a look at me drawing and if anyone can advise me on what can be done i would be most grateful
i know i will need to get a guy in to advise and maybe do the work, but if i can do it then thats fine

View media item 47926
many thanks for looking

 

[noseall]

With the availability of 'Fernco' type connectors, grafting in a connection to a main sewer has never been simpler, or should i say a lot less difficult than it used to be.

If the sewer is not overly deep then we use plastic pre-formed 450mm chamber bottoms.

First you will need to dig a large hole and expose the pipe a good 800mm square hole will be necessary. If it is old salt glaze pipe you will need to locate the chamber bottom so that you avoid the knuckle joints on the old clay.

The new chamber bottom will need piece of plastic pipe inserting in each end say about 200mm long, one each the in and out ends.

Measure the overall distance of the chamber bottom plus the 200mm plastic pipe bits and this is what you need to cut out of the existing sewer pipe.

The pipe can be cut with either a 12" Stihl or with a bit of fiddling a 9" electric will do the job, both equipped with a diamond blade.

Place the fernco couplers on the 200mm bits of pipe sticking out of the chamber bottom. Drop it in place then push the fernco couplers into their finished position and tighten the screws ensuring the chamber is level across.

You are now free to add any wastes onto the chamber inlets. Use enough risers necessary to get you to ground level then fit the lid.

Simples.

 

[noseall]

Just to add;

.....if it means having to elongate the new plastic pipe either in the inlet or outlets of the chamber in order to avoid the joints of the old salt glaze clay, then do so.

Also, avoid being too aggressive when fitting to avoid disturbing the remaining mortar joints of the old salt glaze.

 

[JayHS]

wow..

hi noseall

that was fast. so i am guessing that i can do the work myself then.

that is great news i shall look into geting the bits n bobs ready

i think the main sewer is on 1000mm down or so. and the soil is like putty just now what with the rain lol

"locate the chamber bottom " what is that? and i think it is the old salt glaze pipe work.

"The new chamber bottom" what is this ..

sorry i do not do soil pipe ground work as such and feel a little silly in asking

i might pop into a local builders merchants and have a look at what they have

 

[JayHS]

something like this View media item 47927 this would be ok to use, as the length from wc to main soil waste drain is little over 3mtrs, with 900mm min difference in height from wc to waste mains

or an inline type fernco coupler

and if i use an in line coupler will this mean i have to work fast to avoid any water/waste coming my way?

 

[noseall]

Chamber bottom.....

Fernco coupler....

Chamber risers....

 

[noseall]

something like this View media item 47927 this would be ok to use, as the length from wc to main soil waste drain is little over 3mtrs, with 900mm min difference in height from wc to waste mains

or an inline type fernco coupler

and if i use an in line coupler will this mean i have to work fast to avoid any water/waste coming my way?

The image shows a saddle connection - not recommended.

If you get everything ready, and have a 12" stihl saw, and do it say after 10:30 am then it need only be a few minutes until the chamber is in place.

There are drain plugs available but we don't bother. It really is simple once you have done it once.

Also having a chamber there with multiple inlets means you can add to it and have a good rodding point also.

 

[JayHS]

oh i see what you are talking about now, all very simple as long as i have all the prep work done first.


ok that is great

many thanks for the pics you are a star as always

i shall go shopping tomorrow and see what bits i can get hold of.

many many thanks noseall

i will let you know how i get on in the next week or so

JayHS

 

[Diles]

make sure your new run is steeper than 1:80 for a 100dia. pipe (110 if using plastic), you need to achieve around 1m/sec or better for self cleansing velocity, this is quite important with foul and you dont want it to steep or your get seperation! Try and also get 600mm cover above the soffit of the pipe in landscaped areas and 1.2m in trafficked areas such as drive ways/ failing that you could encase the pipe in 150thk concrete, back fill with a granular fill such as shingle. You want to make sure any connection to manholes where pipes are bigger come in soffit to soffit to avoid fluid backing up the pipe. The 450dia. access chamber Noseall put up is the best one to go with, they can take 100 and 150dia. pipes and blank off any you don't need. Foul water access chambers can be a maximum 1.2m deep and your manhole cover size should match the dia. of the bin. All of this will comply with part H and sewers for adoption. If you want to put some levels or dips to pipes etc i can calculate your falls for you but its very easy just divide the length of the pipe by the gradient (use 80) and this will give you the fall in millimeters from one access point to another, measure along the pipe with a something short like a bit of timber, using a tape measure and a spirit level will probably be sufficient enough. Good luck!

 

[JayHS]

would this do, as it is a 320mm and not a 450 as you said before!

View media item 47961

MANHOLE 320mm BASE 5 INLET, 2 RISER, LID - CLARK DRAIN

only £60 or so of eb ay
is getting a 320mm a poor option? knowing it will never ever get used ( well thats the plan) just keen on having a less of an eye sore on the patio, so the smaller the better as it were.

diles - hi there and cheers for your input. i hear you and understand. cheers for info re self cleansing velocity

i have at a decent guess 3.4mtrs out.. by 900mm down so even half that would be a decent drop for a soil pipe

 

[Diles]

Yes under the addendum to the 6th edition sewers for adoption i think the smaller one will be ok as long as it serves one property only and is for 100dia. which it would be in your case. I can check the regs when I'm back at work Monday but fairly sure you'll be alright! It's only just come out so not quite up to speed yet

 

[noseall]

The image shows a shallow access chamber and are only really suitable up to say 600mm or so, because rodding becomes overly difficult with the smaller bore at depth.

We try and achieve 1:40 drain gradient (25mm every metre) but they will still work at a lot less as Diles has said, provided you are precise.

We fit our drain runs with the pipe dipping slightly before back filling. We then pull a line across the top of the pipe and use intermittent piles pea gravel to pack up the pipe over its length. Once straight we then cover the entire length in pea gravel.

Don't cover the pipes in gravel if they are to be inspected only half cover until passed.

 

[maltaron]

OP says:"how do i go about linking up onto a main sewerage pipe that has a number of houses connected to it further up the way"
Sorry to put a damper on this but that pipe belongs to the local sewerage/water authority and it is likely that any work done on it will have to be done by an approved contractor. You may be able to get them to give you a new connection to the pipe but it will cost. Also any pipework between your WC and the new connection is subject to building regulations. The suggestions so far are all useful & valid if the powers that be let you do it yourself, but that is unlikely.

 

[JayHS]

Don't cover the pipes in gravel if they are to be inspected only half cover until passed. do i need the work inspected? no one has said about this.
i hear you re the size, and yes i was thinking it would be better with the larger.


Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/buildi...onnection-advice-please.329788/#ixzz1zvVql91h

 

[JayHS]

oh so i think i will need to call the local water company and see what they say on monday