Soil Stack & Soil Pipes

20 Nov 2007
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United Kingdom
Hi All,

I'm refitting my bathroom and taking the opportunity to change things about a bit. What this has meant is the WC has now moved diagonally from one corner of the room to the other.

At present the soil pipe goes straight out through the outside wall, turns left and runs along the outside of the bathroom wall into the soil stack.

In its new position it will run out of the bathroom at the other end of the room. So the centre point of the exiting pipe will 6.5 Inches from the centre line of the soil stack (if my calculations are correct).

My plan was to fit a push fit elbow to the exiting pipe and then couple this to a new swept joint in the soil stack - or ideally just rotate the existing one through 180 degrees and connect to this (or would it weaken the rubber seals to rotate it and reuse it).

My question is, will the exit point of the new pipe be too close to the stack to actually be able to connect into it? Therefore should I cut the soil stack at a more workable point (nearer the ground) and crank it over to gain some more room? (if I did crank it I would probably replace everything upwards of this as I don’t really want to be working with a dirty soil pipe any more than I have to!)

Also previously I have found it very hard to put the push fit soil pipe connections together, even after filing a taper and using lubricant. Is there a knack to this? Especially as I could be potentially doing some of this up a ladder!

Thanks in advance guys!
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Hi All,

I'm refitting my bathroom - ideally just rotate the existing one through 180 degrees and connect to this (or would it weaken the rubber seals to rotate it and reuse it).

Thanks in advance guys!
You`ll be lucky to get it to rotate at all - back in the day the only lube plumbers used was KY @ home :mrgreen:
You may well find it easier (and safer) to cut at a suitable point and replace upward from there. May be able to salvage the 'dry' section, upwards of the junction to the pan, that should be clean!

Filing a decent taper and using correct jointing lubricant (smear it on the rubber seal and the taper), and you shouldnt find too much resistance to putting joints together, but i'm with Nige, very much doubt you'll shift anything thats been there a while. Dont risk a fall for the sake of a few £.

Try and avoid using bends in the vertical 'wet' section of the stack if possible. If the exit is too close to the stack then one option is to use a 45 deg bend rather than a 90, and turn the junction so the bend/joint is partly buried in the wall.
so it wouldn't be a good idea to cut the stack and fit a 45 degree to crank it over then run along for about 1 metre at 45 degs then another 45 degree section to straighten up again and run the rest of the stack vertically up from here?
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Not recommended if it can be avoided. Apart from anything else it can get noisy when the W.C. is flushed and the contents of the pan hits the first bend on the way down!
how about if i keep the swept t slightly lower down the stack so i come out of the wall into an elbow that then angles down at about 45 degrees and use about 400mm of pipe to mate with the swept t?

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