Soldering - how much heat?

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I need to connect about hot/cold water supplied (total distance is about 8 feet). Also need to tee-off to create a feed for a toilet cistern. I was going to use plastic pipe pushfit fittings to make the connections but deep down I know I would prefer to use copper with soldered joints. Trouble is I have never done any soldered joints on copper pipework.

I had a bash over the weekend on a couple of test pieces and make a right pigs ear of it (used end feed fittings). In the end i think I blew a hole in the pipe!!!! :LOL:

I am now thinking about using soldered ring fittings. I would clean the copper pipe with wire wool and apply a thin layer of flux before inserting / twisting into the joint. Now, how much heat do I need to melt the solder? Since my disastrous attempt at soldering over the weekend I have read that I need to apply the heat to the fitting, not to the pipe. Also need to allow the torch to heat up as when I tilted it the blue flame would flare into a flame!

How close do I hold the torch to the fitting?
How long do I heat the fitting for?
When will I know when it is sealed.

TIA
 
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like all things in life experience counts.......if you're using yorkshire fittings (integral solder) do as you have stated, heat the fitting until you see a ring of liquid solder run around the outer edge of the joint....as to how much heat it is like saying how long does it take a car to reach 60mph...depends on size of engine etc etc......some solder gas bottles heat much quicker than others.......just trial and error...

Oh, and some fitters add a touch more solder to a YF 'just to be sure'....
 
1: Clean both ends to mate with wire wool
2: Add some flux to cleaned area , not a lot just a tad.
3: Fit in place ensure together
4: Pipe at the stage must be self supporting
5: Heat at centre of joint using the blue tip of the flame
6: Dip your solder into your flux
7: As the flux on the pipe melts/ and solder starts to run, dab your flux solder too joints and ensure complete solder ring
8: leave to cool...............
 
The hottest part of a blowtorch flame is usually reckoned to be just beyond the tip of the blue cone inside the flame.
Up to that point, the flame is actually hollow. The cone is cooler, unburnt gas mixture.

Some burners produce a ring of smaller inner cones, others one large cone.

Blowtorches are more likely to 'flare' when tilted when the gas cannister is full. It is caused by the liquefied fuel gas reaching the jet.

I keep an old gas cartridge with with just a little bit of gas left in it for working at odd angles.

With experience you will begin to pick up a few clues as to how hot things are getting through changes in the colour of the flame, the changes in the metal oxide colours around the flame and the way the flux behaves etc, etc.
 
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Where in Leeds are you?, would you like a free lesson if i'm passing nearby?
 
Where in Leeds are you?, would you like a free lesson if i'm passing nearby?

Thanks for the offer. I'll have another bash and if I am having trouble I'll be in touch!

Thanks very much.

PS I'm in Morley by the way, top of Churwell Hill
 

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