Soldering sheet lead?

[Albumen]

This isn't really plumbing, but I'm considering plumbing materials/techniques.

Just finishing off 60 feet of fence. Looks good, though I say so myself. I used 4 inch posts, treated, concreted in. I want to protect the tops, which are cut square.

From the US I can get copper top things, but I thought about making them myself, out of lead.

So, get the thinnest grade of sheet lead (code 3?) on a 6 inch roll. Cut 6 inches off. Cut across each corner, fold an inch of each side down. But how to join the seams?

I've got an electrical soldering iron. That just ain't gonna do it, is it?

I've got a propane torch. Would that, and the lowset melting point solder I can get, do the job? I'm assuming that this is going to be a case of enough heat to melt the solder, but not the sheet lead.

Presumably I'd neet to flux the sheet and so on. Or would I, as this isn't the usual copper pipe work that I've done so successfully in the past (like, er one joint!).

Any ideas welcome, thanks

 

[tonybhoy]

You need to do lead burning which is an altogether different world from conventional welding and is in fact an art.

However ,IMVHO,lead tops will look carp in a year or so in fact the will look carp right now but you can buy patination oil to stop the lead from oxidising but honest to God all of that for fencing posts.


Don;t you have something else you can be doing with your time

 

[Bahco]

I've got an electrical soldering iron. That just ain't gonna do it, is it?

You are hoping!

I've got a propane torch. Would that, and the lowset melting point solder I can get, do the job?

You need a proper torch kit for lead burning consisting of gas and air bottles which is mixed to give the correct burning temp.

Cost you a few hundred quid for the kit.

 

[Albumen]

Thanks. Is my propane torch going to be too hot, too cold or just too inaccurate enough?

I suppose if I could lay my hands on some scrap lead sheet I could always have a bit of a practice. Are there any other ways of joining lead sheet to make a water tight seal?

Thanks

 

[Albumen]

You need to do lead burning which is an altogether different world from conventional welding and is in fact an art.

However ,IMVHO,lead tops will look carp in a year or so in fact the will look carp right now but you can buy patination oil to stop the lead from oxidising but honest to God all of that for fencing posts.


Don;t you have something else you can be doing with your time

My god man, what can be more important than fencing!!

Yes, you're probably right. Seeing as I know I can get the copper thingies from the states for £80 for 9 of them. And it'll cost me £40 or £50 quid for a roll of lead, then hours of frustration trying to get it to work.

Thing is, they're in between two drives, i.e. in concrete. If/when they rot it'll be the devils own job to get them out and replace them. Also I spent about £400 on timber and all stainless steel fixings, £200 to a couple of big lads to do the posts, and a fair bit of my time doing the rest. I NEVER want to redo this. So a bit of time/money spent protecting one of the most vulnerable areas, i.e. the endgrain of the posts, won't be wasted. If the rails or palings ever go, not problem to replace. Screws and bolts will come out easy (that's why stainless, see?) but rotten posts - I'm buggered. Well not literally.

But as I know I can get something that will work perfectly and made by somebody else then you're right.

Here, in fact:

http://www.themetalpeddler.com/products/garden-decor/fence-post-caps-copper-pyramid.html

Cheers

 

[IJWS15]

Its the bottom of the post you need to worry about, not the top!

 

[2scoops0406]

Its the bottom of the post you need to worry about, not the top!

Indeed! What wrong with wooden topnots (finials!) the base will rot long before the top does

 

[buck51]

Does nobody know how to "work lead" anymore, There is no need to
CUT or BURN, It, just WORK IT
For what your trying to do. Its not as hard as it may sound
Try with the thicker grade first, have a go and let us know how you get on, But remember if at first you don't .... blar blar blar!!!

 

[larrytheleak]

do as buck 51 says if you chamfer the corners slightly much easier job

 

[WDIK]

I was amazed when visiting derby college mason place recently to see lads being trained in lead work and burning.

after all thats what proper plumbing is.

plumbum nigrum Pb lead

 

[tonybhoy]

You need to do lead burning which is an altogether different world from conventional welding and is in fact an art.

However ,IMVHO,lead tops will look carp in a year or so in fact the will look carp right now but you can buy patination oil to stop the lead from oxidising but honest to God all of that for fencing posts.


Don;t you have something else you can be doing with your time

My god man, what can be more important than fencing!!

Yes, you're probably right. Seeing as I know I can get the copper thingies from the states for £80 for 9 of them. And it'll cost me £40 or £50 quid for a roll of lead, then hours of frustration trying to get it to work.

Thing is, they're in between two drives, i.e. in concrete. If/when they rot it'll be the devils own job to get them out and replace them. Also I spent about £400 on timber and all stainless steel fixings, £200 to a couple of big lads to do the posts, and a fair bit of my time doing the rest. I NEVER want to redo this. So a bit of time/money spent protecting one of the most vulnerable areas, i.e. the endgrain of the posts, won't be wasted. If the rails or palings ever go, not problem to replace. Screws and bolts will come out easy (that's why stainless, see?) but rotten posts - I'm b*****r. Well not literally.

But as I know I can get something that will work perfectly and made by somebody else then you're right.

Here, in fact:

http://www.themetalpeddler.com/products/garden-decor/fence-post-caps-copper-pyramid.html

Cheers

Having seen what it is your after then your man above is bang on the money just use a dresser and work the lead ,shouldn't be too difficult. I would use code four lead though but still think you have waaaayyyy too much time on your hands

 

[tonybhoy]

I was amazed when visiting derby college mason place recently to see lads being trained in lead work and burning.

after all thats what proper plumbing is.

plumbum nigrum Pb lead

Lead work and lead burning really is a totally different trade from 'yer actual plumbing guv'.

I've not used my lead tools in at least 25 years. Still have all of them though,never did lead burning except at college though.

You can't even buy a bar of solder now ,least not where I am.

 

[Albumen]

Thanks folks. I think I'll just buy those nice things from the US of A.

 

[WDIK]

eu'contraire sir

the origin of plumbing dates back from the roman times when they used to use rolled lead pipe.
in use up to the 20th century

plumbum Pb lead the origin of the term Plumber

 

[tonybhoy]

Thanks folks. I think I'll just buy those nice things from the US of A.

Mind and buy some anti-tarnishing stuff for them or they will go dull pretty soon and then green. That site recommends clear varnish BTW.

Cheers,

Tony.