Firstly, you need to check the moisture content in the slab, being signed off as 'dry' by the insurance company does not mean the floor is in a suitable condition to be glued too!
The flooring should come with the recommended levels for moisture content of the concrete before you can fit to it, you will need a protometer or hydrometer to measure the moisture content of the subfloor. As a general rule, 1 inch of depth of concrete requires 1 month of drying time, assuming that there are no underlying residual moisture levels seperate from the flooding issue.
It is vital that the concrete is 'in tolerance' or the whole floor will blow.
Secondly, povided the concrete is dry and there are no residual moisture issues, the subfloor needs to be completely level and smooth, that means laying a self levelling latex screed over the subfloor.
If there is a residual moisture issue, you will need to lay a liquid DPM membrane BEFORE you screed the floor. Look at companies websites like Ardex and F-Ball for advice on this.
The wood can now be fully stuck to the subfloor but you must use an adhesive of the type recommended by the manufacturer, it's imperitive that the adhesive works with the floor to maintain as much stability as possible.
The advantage of a solid wood floor over a floating floor is that as it is directly connected to the subfloor, it will be alot more sound absorbing and solid under foot, the disadvantage is that it is colder under foot, fitting is more difficult, time consuming, expensive and critical. Soild wood is not necerssarily any harder wearing than an Engineered Wood Floor.
