Solid wood worktop/worksurface

11 Feb 2007
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United Kingdom
Hi all, i am having solid wooden beech worktops in my new kitchen, fitting everything myself as a moderate DIYer and with my dads help (V. experienced DIYer).

I have a few queries and or requests for advice.

A dishwasher is going under the worktop, what is the best method for preventing vapour ingress from the dishwasher? Varnish on underside or a vapour barrier of some kind (what kind?!)?

I am going to use danish oil to seal the worksurface but my other half wants a slightly darker hue than the natural beech (she has seen the effect in Wickes), can i use a stain before oiling? And if so what kind is best? Obviously it would need to be food safe.

Finally we are having a belfast sink, probably going ot jigasw the majority of material out of the worktop then use a router to make the final cut. Any advice? Can i get a router bit that will do the full depth of worktop or do i need to do it in two "halves" one from the underside and one from the topside?

All advice/hints/tips/answers more than greatly appreciated!!

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you should have a foil based matt to stick on the underneath off the worktop above the dishwasher
are you fitting a drop in or undermounted sink!!!

the colour will tone down with the application of oil

you need to oil the underside 3 times before instilation

you then oil the worktop every day for a week' every week for a month' then every month for a year' then 2 or 3 times a year after that
I use laggers foil tape to seal underside of worktops, sticks very well to most surfaces and is heat and moisture resistant.
Thanks both

Its a belfast sink, so needs to be nice neat cut.

Big-all, i don't quite follow what you mean by the colour will "tone down" with applciations of oil? Do you mean the beech will get darker when i oil it without the need to stain it darker first?

Does anyone have any suggestions where i can get a foil based vapour barrier/lagging type material?


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yes take you finger and wet it with spit then rub this on the worktop or if you dont like the old fashioned way use a damp cloth this will give you an idea what a single coat off oil will do

are you aware off the need for a router and a cappilery groove underneath to shed the water in the 12mm overlap around the sink!!!
thanks big all,

yes aware of need for router and drip forming groove.

Intend to cut out belfast shape to a bit smaller than required "hole" with jigsaw then create a template out of mdf for the final size (belfast interior dimensions minus 12mm on each edge for worktop overhang. Then use a stright router bit to trim down to the final size and create a neat edge.

Or is it better not to use the jigsaw at all, create the template from MDF as above then make the cut using a stright router bit in several passes?

Thanks again for all advice

several ways off doing the cutout if you have a 1/2" router you can use a worktop cutter

you can use a circular

i personaly would aim for 15mm overlap to give you a bit off "room" to play with
mark the sink opening use a spade bit off around 25mm[1"] on the internal corners
2x2" batton clamped away from the motor for the base plate to rub against

cut from front to back UPSIDEDOWN fully supported back to front except the front 2"

once you have cut both edges up to the holes clamp a batton to the front edge at least 24" overlap each side off the cut bit onto the wortop and clamp with a minimum 2 clamps each side

clamp the cutout to the batton

cut the back edge from the cutout

turn the worktop over and position so you can finnish with a jigsaw[pendulum at zero] or hand saw verticaly into the corners where the circsaw couldnt reach

you can use a hardpoint saw by clamping a 2x2" batton along the cut edge
the only dificulty is working the saw through the closed back edge by rubbing the point off the saw untill youve cut through the worktop centraly at the back to allow cutting both ways

you can stitch a series off 8mm hole at a 2 degree angle finishing just touching the cut side off the line

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