Some initial observations on the use of smart trvs on all the rads. (Zero zoning)

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I have gone through quite the journey of late with my CH system to the point where much of it has been replaced or reconfigured (DIY).

One such change was the switch from a traditional S+ type, two zone heating plan with std TRVs and one thermostat per zone to a fully smart heating system with no CH zones (all zone valves removed) and smart radiator valves on all rads. The HW circuit is unchanged (controlled by the new Hub).

This means i have individual control of each radiator, or where i have wireless thermostats (I've 2) each room as the the thermostat has heating priority over the rad(s) its linked to.

There is no longer a button operated control. There is a signal hub but all settings are via app.

The system has some intelligence in that it can learn the heating/cooling profile of a room or rad zone and adjust accordingly. It also has weather compensation and will do boiler modulation if the boiler has the option.

Everything except the hub is wireless.

So. Observations:

1) With controllability, comes complexity. This is not an on-off system. If you are used to using your thermostats incorrectly (by force or by habit) to control your heating, this is a quantum leap in interaction and you may need some time to adjust.

2) There is a learning curve. This is both for the administration and the users. The challenge is to make the system as invisible to the user so that they don't think about the heating anymore, whilst getting them to perhaps break old habits and be more interactive with their own heating needs.

3) ignorance is bliss.... Once you go smart. You start acting smart. You begin to take notice of the systems and how they should operate.

4) whilst its a steep learning curve, its quite short. Once you open up your mind to a different way (which can itself be a challenge) then getting to grips with is not difficult. It is all very intuitive and obvious.

5) Most importantly, what has been seen, cannot be unseen .

On that last point, i am becoming increasingly away of just how low-resolution typical heating systems are and how our expectations and usage of them are equally low resolution.

In the past, the use of heating systems was typicaly digital. Turn it on if cold, off if hot, leave it on if rich, leave it off if poor. Not much thought as to having the temperature in a house "correct", based on activities or location.

Having a smart system has opened up my eyes as to how poor the application of heating has been (for me).

Now, i am in the honeymoon period, granted, and as i learn and the house and its users adapt, my interaction with the systems will level off, but actively thinking about what temps should be, when and where, because now i can control them, has been a revelation.

At night, background heating only and as requested by each occupant, with each one being different in both times and temps. In the morning, a general boost to help people get up and ready, except for my oldest who works late. In the day, heating off, or set to a minimum except in the office where a warm room is needed to help keep the body warm when sat at the desk. In the early evening, another boost for those returning home. Lets keep the hall cool because nobody stays in it and the front door is opening and closing. Lets keep the kitchen cool as well because the cook has enough to keep him warm. Keep the dining room off as its a single - use room, just boost it when food is due to be served. Everyone gone to bed early? No probs, hit the quick setting and put the floor in setback mode fir the night. Staying up late to watch a movie? Hit the room boost. Nice and snug but without heating any other rooms. Having a shower or bath? Don't constantly heat the bathrooms just because your boiler needs a bypass, fit a ABV and and then just boost the rad when you are having a bath, or a shower or you want a warm towel after a shave.

Sounds lits of work and in the first week, it does need some inputs but once it settles down, its fairly minor and becomes normal.

I have found myself in awe at how much heat and energy i have misused and wasted with my previous set up. I would only ever change the heating if i absolutely needed to. The interface of the old control was dreadful (they all are).
Now, i just open the app, tick an option. Job done. Where as before i would be writing this with the heating on downstairs and upstairs in a uniform manner, now i am sat with just the riom i am in staying warm. Everyone else in bed.

I've also noticed that the level if heating has changed. The system is learning. I don't "feel" the heating anymore. The rooms are just so. In particular, my family now question (without prompting) if they are cold, rather than the room they are in. Boosting ir knocking back the heating in their own space, or say in the bathrooms (i do love that feature tbh) is something they now do naturally and really, without much in the way if input from me. It is just the right thing to do so no lessons reqd.

I don't know if its going to save money. I know it's not going to cost me more. The heating is of a better quality, rather than just more or less of it.
I'm reminded of Harry's comments on a previous thread where he was quite happy to have the whole house warm and at the same temp and ut effectively just one zone. I got the low effort benefits if that approach and if you can afford to do that or have a small house then whatever but i just kept thinking why? Using this smart system has me thinking that its nuts. A heating system should be dynamic and work for you and give you comfort and control as your require.

I can say this new smart system has done just that. The proof is in the pudding, my family love it.

If you are thinking of this approach, I'd find little to warn you about and much to recommend.

I would say though to go all in if you can. Just fit the system everywhere and use the system to its fullest. No point in going to the trouble of changing the stats (or getting rid of them completely) and changing the controller for you to hobble the system with a lack of rad control.

Oh, one other benefit if this system is that uts discreet. No wires. No wall fixtures. No recievers for stats and you can bury the rads in furniture if you want by just adding a room stat as its master. This removes that eternal problem of keeping the trvs free so that they can read the room accurately.


I'll post an update on the above after the winter, warts and all, although, really, I don't see that many downsides. (Batteries may be one).

:)
 
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The one concern I have with this setup (yes I've gone smart heating as well as some other smart stuff) is what happens in a local power cut and what happens if you lose connectivity to wherever the hosting servers are
Local power cut- if it's an hour or so then no big drama. Half a day and I'd be digging the generator out - the woodburner will still work, the gennie can run the pumps but if I can't switch the pumps on the kitchen and bedrooms will be toasty but sitting room will be chilly.First world problem I know....
Internet dies- maybe more of a problem. Not tested the heating controller & WiFi rad valves yet- my other smart stuff does continue to follow any schedule but the 4 way cards have no manual option so they could be a problem. Might do some testing, see how much continues to run with LAN but no WAN
 
Any pumped system is goosed without power. I've the wiser-drayton system which uses its own mesh network to communicate with the heating so will continue to work if the network is lost.

You do need a network to communicate with it though (to use the app).

For energy security, I've an open fire which I'm slow to get rid of........
 
Yerse, the test I need to run is to ditch the WAN (or wait til Virgin falls over again) and see if the Wiser and EwE apps can function with only LAN Comms. Pumps will run on the gennie, woodburner heats the thermal store as well :)
 
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Interesting stuff, have thought about this myself. My concern is cost though. How much is the system, and how long do you think it will be before you get the money back?
I have 10 radiators, so at £65 per smart radiator thermostat, plus the smart controllers etc. I think we're looking at around £1000 to install. Seeing that the house is well insulated, and the heating not generally on during the day, and only a couple of hours in the morning, and again from 3pm til bedtime, I am not sure I'd make much of a saving really.
 
Interesting stuff, have thought about this myself. My concern is cost though. How much is the system, and how long do you think it will be before you get the money back?
I have 10 radiators, so at £65 per smart radiator thermostat, plus the smart controllers etc. I think we're looking at around £1000 to install. Seeing that the house is well insulated, and the heating not generally on during the day, and only a couple of hours in the morning, and again from 3pm til bedtime, I am not sure I'd make much of a saving really.

For 11 rads, plus a two zone controller c/w two thermostats, it cost me £600.
This was a refurb project though as all of my trv heads were knackered and the 3 zone controller was goosed (bad buttons). The two thermostats i had controlling the zones were crapping out as well and one of the zone valves was acting up so it all needed replacing.

In my case, i think it was perhaps cheaper than putting in traditional kit. I didn't need to replace the worn zone valves. I didn't need a two zone controller either, with the zone valves deleted, my system is now 1 zone +HW. To make it even cheaper, you don't really need a thermostat if you go zero-zone. (they are £95 each to buy separately!). I use the two i have because they are there, not because i need them.

For me, the big benefits are controllability and consistency (no more hot-cold-hot-cold heating profiles. its just a nice even warm. Any future cost benefits are a bonus.
 
My system has Wiser valves fitted to all radiators on a Y plan system powered by an oil boiler.
I've been thinking for some time, as per Blue, that as the wiser valves give control over each rad, the mid position valve is basically redundant and could be replaced with a simple zone valve on the hot water primary heating circuit, controlled by the Wiser heat hub.
(It's a perfect time for me to implement this as my mid position valve has started playing up, and will need replacement or preferably, removal)
The only drawback I can see with this system is that it will not give priority to hot water, which the existing Y plan system does.
I'd be very interested in how Blue (or anybody else who's implemented this) addressed this issue.
 
My system has Wiser valves fitted to all radiators on a Y plan system powered by an oil boiler.
I've been thinking for some time, as per Blue, that as the wiser valves give control over each rad, the mid position valve is basically redundant and could be replaced with a simple zone valve on the hot water primary heating circuit, controlled by the Wiser heat hub.
(It's a perfect time for me to implement this as my mid position valve has started playing up, and will need replacement or preferably, removal)
The only drawback I can see with this system is that it will not give priority to hot water, which the existing Y plan system does.
I'd be very interested in how Blue (or anybody else who's implemented this) addressed this issue.
For priority hot water you should replace the mid position valve with a diverter valve. Diverter valves are not so prone to breakdown.

I have a Wiser system, installed 18 months ago, and at one point had the smart TRV's on all my radiators bar two towel radiators, but over the last few months I have gradually replaced some of the smart TRV's with manual TRV's to stop individual radiators firing the boiler and wasting energy. I have found the Wiser TRV's to be pretty inaccurate overall.
 
Thanks Mr Banks, that's not something I had considered. Would you know if the (Drayton) diverter valve and mid point valve share the same brass bodies? If so, this would be great as it would avoid a system drain down.
 
I have gone through quite the journey of late with my CH system to the point where much of it has been replaced or reconfigured (DIY).

One such change was the switch from a traditional S+ type, two zone heating plan with std TRVs and one thermostat per zone to a fully smart heating system with no CH zones (all zone valves removed) and smart radiator valves on all rads. The HW circuit is unchanged (controlled by the new Hub).

This means i have individual control of each radiator, or where i have wireless thermostats (I've 2) each room as the the thermostat has heating priority over the rad(s) its linked to.

There is no longer a button operated control. There is a signal hub but all settings are via app.

The system has some intelligence in that it can learn the heating/cooling profile of a room or rad zone and adjust accordingly. It also has weather compensation and will do boiler modulation if the boiler has the option.

Everything except the hub is wireless.

So. Observations:

1) With controllability, comes complexity. This is not an on-off system. If you are used to using your thermostats incorrectly (by force or by habit) to control your heating, this is a quantum leap in interaction and you may need some time to adjust.

2) There is a learning curve. This is both for the administration and the users. The challenge is to make the system as invisible to the user so that they don't think about the heating anymore, whilst getting them to perhaps break old habits and be more interactive with their own heating needs.

3) ignorance is bliss.... Once you go smart. You start acting smart. You begin to take notice of the systems and how they should operate.

4) whilst its a steep learning curve, its quite short. Once you open up your mind to a different way (which can itself be a challenge) then getting to grips with is not difficult. It is all very intuitive and obvious.

5) Most importantly, what has been seen, cannot be unseen .

On that last point, i am becoming increasingly away of just how low-resolution typical heating systems are and how our expectations and usage of them are equally low resolution.

In the past, the use of heating systems was typicaly digital. Turn it on if cold, off if hot, leave it on if rich, leave it off if poor. Not much thought as to having the temperature in a house "correct", based on activities or location.

Having a smart system has opened up my eyes as to how poor the application of heating has been (for me).

Now, i am in the honeymoon period, granted, and as i learn and the house and its users adapt, my interaction with the systems will level off, but actively thinking about what temps should be, when and where, because now i can control them, has been a revelation.

At night, background heating only and as requested by each occupant, with each one being different in both times and temps. In the morning, a general boost to help people get up and ready, except for my oldest who works late. In the day, heating off, or set to a minimum except in the office where a warm room is needed to help keep the body warm when sat at the desk. In the early evening, another boost for those returning home. Lets keep the hall cool because nobody stays in it and the front door is opening and closing. Lets keep the kitchen cool as well because the cook has enough to keep him warm. Keep the dining room off as its a single - use room, just boost it when food is due to be served. Everyone gone to bed early? No probs, hit the quick setting and put the floor in setback mode fir the night. Staying up late to watch a movie? Hit the room boost. Nice and snug but without heating any other rooms. Having a shower or bath? Don't constantly heat the bathrooms just because your boiler needs a bypass, fit a ABV and and then just boost the rad when you are having a bath, or a shower or you want a warm towel after a shave.

Sounds lits of work and in the first week, it does need some inputs but once it settles down, its fairly minor and becomes normal.

I have found myself in awe at how much heat and energy i have misused and wasted with my previous set up. I would only ever change the heating if i absolutely needed to. The interface of the old control was dreadful (they all are).
Now, i just open the app, tick an option. Job done. Where as before i would be writing this with the heating on downstairs and upstairs in a uniform manner, now i am sat with just the riom i am in staying warm. Everyone else in bed.

I've also noticed that the level if heating has changed. The system is learning. I don't "feel" the heating anymore. The rooms are just so. In particular, my family now question (without prompting) if they are cold, rather than the room they are in. Boosting ir knocking back the heating in their own space, or say in the bathrooms (i do love that feature tbh) is something they now do naturally and really, without much in the way if input from me. It is just the right thing to do so no lessons reqd.

I don't know if its going to save money. I know it's not going to cost me more. The heating is of a better quality, rather than just more or less of it.
I'm reminded of Harry's comments on a previous thread where he was quite happy to have the whole house warm and at the same temp and ut effectively just one zone. I got the low effort benefits if that approach and if you can afford to do that or have a small house then whatever but i just kept thinking why? Using this smart system has me thinking that its nuts. A heating system should be dynamic and work for you and give you comfort and control as your require.

I can say this new smart system has done just that. The proof is in the pudding, my family love it.

If you are thinking of this approach, I'd find little to warn you about and much to recommend.

I would say though to go all in if you can. Just fit the system everywhere and use the system to its fullest. No point in going to the trouble of changing the stats (or getting rid of them completely) and changing the controller for you to hobble the system with a lack of rad control.

Oh, one other benefit if this system is that uts discreet. No wires. No wall fixtures. No recievers for stats and you can bury the rads in furniture if you want by just adding a room stat as its master. This removes that eternal problem of keeping the trvs free so that they can read the room accurately.


I'll post an update on the above after the winter, warts and all, although, really, I don't see that many downsides. (Batteries may be one).

:)

Welcome to multi zone controls. Had it a while and fitted several
 
The one concern I have with this setup (yes I've gone smart heating as well as some other smart stuff) is what happens in a local power cut and what happens if you lose connectivity to wherever the hosting servers are
Local power cut- if it's an hour or so then no big drama. Half a day and I'd be digging the generator out - the woodburner will still work, the gennie can run the pumps but if I can't switch the pumps on the kitchen and bedrooms will be toasty but sitting room will be chilly.First world problem I know....
Internet dies- maybe more of a problem. Not tested the heating controller & WiFi rad valves yet- my other smart stuff does continue to follow any schedule but the 4 way cards have no manual option so they could be a problem. Might do some testing, see how much continues to run with LAN but no WAN
This is some thing I have experienced about a year ago in high winds when the EE mast went down, the system will still work without any grid power, as long as the wall thermostat thinks one is at home, my battery back up kept the central heating (oil) running while the smart meter was fitted without a problem. How long for not sure, solar panels will likely keep the battery charged, and my Nest Gen 3 thermostat did not close down the system when router stopped working, but it set system as away when the EE mast went down, and I had to remove the geofencing option.

I would regard my system as having nine zone valves, as the TRV's are clearly motorised so are motorised valves, but unlike the old motorised valves they can adjust flow rate, not simply on/off.

This house they have not worked as well as with my late mothers house, her boiler could modulate, mine does not, and I have a feeling some where there is a by-pass not found as yet on my system, hers I carefully set each lock shield valve so the room temp did not over shoot, here all lock shield valves are wide open. No one radiator ever gets super hot, is seems the micro bore auto sets flow rate without need to adjust with lock shield valves.

The idea of a staggered start up works, but it has a limited time between each TRV opening or the boiler shuts down, so 15 minutes is fine, I can start with kitchen, then dinning room, then living room and finally bedrooms, but non of my TRV heads are linked to the Nest wall thermostat, it was claimed they could link, but only when using app to change temperature, if I allowed the thermostat to be programmed, it did not change the TRV settings, and anyway that's the wrong way around anyway, so looking for a second wall thermostat in parallel with first.

My problem is the living room gets the sun, and has an open fire, so a thermostat in living room would stop rest of house heating, but the hall cools too slowly, so once the thermostat turns off house gets cold before it kicks in again.

Late mothers house however was A1, it took some time adjusting the lock shields to stop over shoot, and also took some careful setting of hall wall thermostat and TRV so they worked together, to allow fast recovery when front door opened, yet the TRV needed to turn down output as it got near to wall thermostat setting so as not to starve rest of the house of heat.

This is why when I got this house I got Nest which was claimed to work with Energenie, but they lied, Nest is useless. My hope is to fit either Hive or Wiser in parallel with Nest and put it in living room, and then swap the wife's bedroom TRV for a linked one.

However what it has shown me is all homes are different, just because it works in one house, does not mean it will work in another. I did consider gas, but decided don't want a bomb in my garden thank you, I remember the French camp site, and so don't want LPG.

So I have 3 x Energenie heads, 5 x eQ-3 heads, and one Kasa (TP-Link) head, the latter is by far the best of the three. But eQ-3 were far cheaper at £15 each for blue tooth version, the Energenie can only be set with the app, but the others can be local set.

I realise my hall is not ideal for thermostat, but neither is any other room, every mid floor room has doors to outside, kitchen has cooking stuff in it so not suitable, dinning room often not used so heating turned off, and living room has an open fire. I do have two zone valves, one for house and one for flat, and two pumps, it is on a C Plan, and the flat has a thermostat in the kitchen, but since flat not used much in winter, that does not matter. But any TRV heads replaced in the main house the old ones will be fitted in the flat.
 
Thanks Mr Banks, that's not something I had considered. Would you know if the (Drayton) diverter valve and mid point valve share the same brass bodies? If so, this would be great as it would avoid a system drain down.
Sorry I don’t know, give Drayton a call as they are pretty good at picking up the call.
 
Thanks, what I've done is check the part numbers, it's as I thought, the valve body is a common part. That's the good news. The bad news is that the flow to hot water, ie with the valve energised, exits from the opposite side of the tee in relation to the mid posn valve. So it's either a drain down, or the the valve energised whenever the heating is on. Not best practice, I guess
 

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