Spur with cut off switch

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I bought a 20 amp switch for a spur for the TV (double socket) I didn't want a neon 35 amp or red top just don't like the way it looks like you've got a cooker in your living room.. will that be ok to use ? it's not fused..

I'm taking that spur from a double socket but also I'm planning on taking another spur from another double socket in the same room to a triple socket for tivo box, wireless router and phone power.. is that also ok to do ?
 
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No absolute requirement to fuse a spur, but you are limited to only one single or double socket. Also no requirement to have it switched, but it can be useful for isolation if the socket will be awkward to access. I would only use a 20A DP switch to control one single unswitched socket on an unfused spur.

Do ensure that the socket you will spur from is on a ring (i.e. not already a spur), or on a radial circuit.

If you anticipate more than one socket on a spur-from-a-ring, then either of these are appropriate:

ae235
ae235


The triple socket will be fused anyway but, without a fused spur, must again be the only accessory on the spur.
 
There are no spurs on my living room ring..

As I said I want to put a double socket on the first spur for the TV and perhaps an xbox in the future, but for now it's just the TV and I have raggled out a double socket already.. I couldn't find a switch that was not red marked or neon but then I only went to 2 places 1 being B&Q

The triple socket will be taken from another double socket in the same room, actually it is a single socket back box with a double plug face to be exact..

Can you clarify I didn't quite get what you meant ...
 
Then not only are you incorrect in terminology but probably not safe doing it either.
 
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Mind your own business if you have nothing to contribute.. jeez is this place full of people like him ? it's not rocket science, and I'm just making sure I'm clear in my mind before moving forward..

Actually on re-reading your post echoes I think I'm doing exactly the right thing just need to get a more suitable isolation switch.. thanks..

Do you have a link to the perfect switch for the job ?
 
If you are wanting to use a 20A switch to control a double socket you will have to fuse down as the socket could be used to power 2 13A loads. Best bet it to use a sfcu (as per echoes pic) as you can use the switch to isolate the socket.

You can take 1 spur powering a double socket with out the spur being protected via another OPD from any socket on the ring (max of 1 per socket).
 
Mind your own business if you have nothing to contribute.. jeez is this place full of people like him ? it's not rocket science, and I'm just making sure I'm clear in my mind before moving forward..

Actually on re-reading your post echoes I think I'm doing exactly the right thing just need to get a more suitable isolation switch.. thanks..

Do you have a link to the perfect switch for the job ?
Why are you complicating things by putting a switch in the way.
If you want to run a double socket spur from an existing socket then use 2.5mm2 T&E cable and use an unswitched double socket like this.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-2-gang-unswiitched-socket/41714
 
Because I'm putting it behind the TV and want to be able to switch off the power easily, without having to stick my hand behind it..

And sorry shouldn't have been so grumpy with Alarm, been a long day and covered in dust from the angle grinder..
 
No worries it was late and I was too.
Could not see why you are going thru so much trouble.

I use remote switch units, no need to go behind anything. Nothing is left on standby.
By all means put in extra but why make life difficult.
 
If I were you I'd use a switched FCU with a 13 A fuse; this will not restrict the number of sockets. (I just counted how many plugs I have in 'TV corner':
12 :eek:)

All this AV/broadband stuff is low power and should not trouble a 13A fuse.
 

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