Stainless nails for Cedar cladding

[festive]

Morning all, been struggling to find some Stainless nails for my Cedar TGV Cladding.

I decided i need something like 40 x2.65 lost head nails (correct me if im wrong)

Well im struggling to find anyone who stocks such an item! Any help most appreciated. Im located in Dorset area or willing to mail order.


TIA

F

 

[festive]

Found a place supplied M3x50mm lost head.

Guess they are a bit long but hope they will be ok, was worried the thickness may split the tongue of cedar, i was told chippies hammer the ends so they push through the wood instead. Anyway fingers crossed they will do the job, guy was very helpful and despatched 2day delivery from here:


http://www.inox.ie/acatalog/Ringshank_Nails.html

 

[^woody^]

If this is exterior, you should really avoid secret nailing as nails would need to be quite thin to avoid splitting the tongue when nailing, and also as the cladding expands/contracts the nails will split the tongue as it is a weak point.

Also, secret nails don't give a strong fixing for external purposes

You also want two nails across the width of the board to prevent it cupping

Lost head nails want to be just slightly below the surface so that they still hold the board when it shrinks a little

Yes you flatten the nail point and this helps preven the wood splitting when you knock the nail in

 

[festive]

Ok thanks Woody, so how to i achieve a clean cladding finish and without the cedar cupping

Ive seen many examples on t'internet of cedar clad houses/buildings and none of these how evidence of nailing on show.

For example

http://www.theqube.co.uk/

 

[^woody^]

It really depends on the profile and thickness of the board. Some thinner and smaller tongue profiles will be more susceptable to splitting and cupping (ie typical match-board types for sheds)

Thicker (18mm) profiles with thicker and longer tongues will be less prone, and so may take secret nailing in certain circumstances as bigger nails can be used.

Generally people tend to talk about the thnner common match-board type cladding, and this was what I was cautioning about

If you are using the thicker 18mm profiles, then these then to have a minimum 20mm tongue and the tongue is also about 11mm thick so these will take nailing through the tongue

Common profiles are here www.vincenttimber.co.uk/welcome2/index.html

 

[festive]

Thanks for your time Woody, ill take a measure of my cladding when i get home.

 

[festive]

Okay my Cedar cladding is 15mm thick and the tongue is 5mm in thickness

Thoughts?

 

[^woody^]

I'm assuming your profile is something like this? A typical matchboard V profile

In which case there is little space in the tongue to nail, and your proposed 3mm SS nails may split it or not be covered by the groove of the next board. This profile is really for thinner nails in the tongue or face nailing.

But, there are a few variables so it is probably best for you to try a few boards and see how you get on. It may be OK, but its best to be aware of the possible issues. I don't really want to put you off doing it.

 

[festive]

Thanks Woody. Well once the nails turn up sure ill give it a try, must admit i was using oval lost head steel nails, which were i guess were 2.65 wide but when i came on here i was advised not to use steel/Iron nails. Must use SS. Due to the staining the rusting Steel nails will cause in the Cedar.

Ive trawled nail companies for 2.65 x 40mm nails lost head, noone seems to do them. Maybe ill call that cube company and see if they can supply me! Just seems strange noone in this country has a recommended fixing for this type of cladding, without using anular shanked nails on the front face.

 

[Deluks]

I know that Champion Timber (Predominantly S.London/Surrey) do stainless nails. Not sure if they do lost but they defo do rink shank.

 

[festive]

Thanks Deluks and yep they only do ring shanks AHHHH!

 

[festive]

OKay, spoke to my timber supplier he recommended Panel Pins?

http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code...ers&MainCategoryID=11&ProductCategoryID=59242



Getting desperate now...

30 X 1.6MM/1 1/4 X 16G ST/ST PANEL - PIN BULK

 

[festive]

My next question was about preserving the colour of the Cedar cladding without affecting the colour and Finish.

So i called Ronseal direct they recommended:

Ronseal Outdoor varnish protects from sun(UV) and from elements

Ronseal multi purpose wood preserver in Clear. Designed to be painted over afterwards if need be.


He personally recommended Ronseal Multipurpose Preserver. Which is what i guess ill go for.

I reckon this should be made a sticky or added to a faq somewhere in this forum to help others.

My last question was really a concern about the cladding cupping, do i coat the backside of the cladding or will the preserver help prevent cupping, or do i GLUE the cladding to my battens?

 

[^woody^]

You don't want a varnish or anything that gives surface coating that will crack and peel. A 'micro porous' preservative is better. And it is UV protection more than water or rot protection which is required.

An important part is the storing and initial drying of the cladding, to prevent uneven drying and twisting.

Then its the fixing, as fixing on a hot sunny day can lead to uneven drying and shrinkage, and hot dry weather following fixing can lead to cupping and splitting as the board dries out quicker than it should. The best time to fix cladding is actually in late autumn and early winter

Give the cladding one coat all over prior to fixing - an pay more attention to end grain. Then give the exterior the rest of the recommended coats - but thin coats - dont let the liquid collect in the grooves

As the timber is natural, to a large extent the grain or cut of the board will influence its susceptability to cupping or twisting. But taking the above precautions will help.

And remember that the choice of coating will dictate how often you then need to recoat. It may be worth paying more for a premium product rather than a drum of the £5.99 stuff from B&Q

 

[festive]

Ok on that advice i decided to seek a 'proper' alternative. My requirements were a wood preserver with UVB filters and elasticity so as not to crack or peel
Found my answer, it's a new product from Dulux Trade called Naked Wood

see here:
Naked wood base coat

Naked Wood Top coat

Its available on the shelf from Brewers paint specialist, also available from TP and Jewsons but they will order in and normally receive their paint deliveries once a friggin week.

Anyway this stuff isn't cheap, 5litre tin costs about 80quid! And a basecoat about £35 but if it does what it says on the tin it's worth it.


I really have done alot of research on this timber gym of mine and will shortly supply a list of parts etc, ive modelled my building on the the qube they charge about £30,000 for a 6.5x3.5m2 building, i reckon ive built it for about £6000 in materials + my labour, and that's without a bulk discount trade account.