stiff outside door handles - Ford KA

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2007 1.3i

Its a 2 door model.

Both sides are rather stiff. Are the latches cable or pushrod anyone know?

The handles lift but to get the latch to release, takes a bit extra effort.

I could take the inner panels off and attack the linkages with WD I suppose.
 
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Before you delve too far, lubricate the outer lock catch, which you can see with the door open, with white spray grease.
John :)
 
Job done, door handles nice and smooth.

Sprayed white grease in to the locks and WD on the outside handles using the straw, spraying from above and below.

Gave the WD a while to seep into wherever it needed to go, then sprayed a bit of white grease in for good measure.

I worked the handles plenty and they now seem canny.

At least they won't break off now.



Thanks John!
 
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Problem with the driver door latch on the KA today.

The latching leaver got stuck in the closed position so could not engage the strike bar on the door frame.

Unlatched it using a punch then a good spray (again) of WD and the lever is operating nicely.

Sprayed the passenger door and tailgate for good measure.

I'm just curious why the latching lever was stuck in the closed position after opening the door - strange!
Sign of wear perhaps? ... considering I lubed the door locks recently.

Anyway, the car owner (my niece) is happy, so all is well for now!
 
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Ach zo - if the lever was in the closed position, the door wouldn't have opened in the first place?
The lever rolls around the door pin, and clicks shut, and it's (theoretically) only the door handle can operate it.....with the door open, push a screwdriver into the catch and see if you can move it. You shouldn't be able to! Is the car centrally locked?
John :)
 
There's a wur sound when locking/unlocking, so presumably C/L
 
Aye, it will be. Just wondering if the fob was pressed with the door open?
John :)
(Bouncing round in the middle of the bay of Biscay just now) :sick:
 
Door locking/unlocking is done with key in the lock. Its not a fobed key!

Perhaps the key was turned while the door was open and the C/L has operated the lock.
 
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Change the lock before your niece gets locked in the car.
 
Reporting in!

All now seems well with the door locks.

It seems best to spray with WD first then spray with white grease to keep the WD sealed in.


I remember years ago with a mk4 Cortina I had, both rear door latches seized open and I had to drive home with a rope, tied to the door handles, resting on the passengers laps, to keep the doors closed.
 
Ah the Cortina range. Mk. 1.. the long gearstick fell off - lucky I had molegrips in the toolkit;)
 
A mate of mine once stood in for a taxi driver on holiday - said taxi was mk4 Cortina.

The clown ran out of petrol whilst on the job.

I recovered him with a gallon of petrol in the tank (a bit poured in the carb for a quick start). Back in service, a few hundred yards along the road, he pulled over again. I pulled in behind and went to see what the bother was. I opened the door and there he was, sitting with the gear stick in his hand.
 
Was that the nylon thread on the stick with the locking tabs to knock over? Very easy to cross thread but mine never came out.
 
It makes me laugh when people advocate using WD40 as a lubricant. It isn't! It is, as implied in its name, a Water Dispersant. It's also a degreaser. If you want to lubricate something, use a spray lubricant.
 
WD40, water dispersal formula 40, formulated to disperse water from the the heads of torpedoes I read somewhere.

Trouble with using white grease, it seems too thick to run into places WD can get to.

Please advise on your recommendations for door lock lubrication products Motman.
 
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