Stone Wall Re-pointing Questions

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Depends on how exposed the wall is. That's a non hydraulic lime which only hardens by absorbing CO2. We normally use NHL 3.5 for garden walls.
 
It doesn't matter if you use pre-mixed or mix yourself. Remember this is a garden wall so it will probably get a bit more exposure than a house wall. A 1:2 mix is equivilant to NHL5 and 1:2.5 is equivilant to NHL 3.5. I'd probably use 2.5 on the wall face and 1:2 for the more exposed parts of the top. I would still advise testing a few mixes and sands to see how it goes. The sand can have a big effect on the final mix and appearance.
 
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Using an NHL lime mortar is more reliable than an air lime for external work, because of the way it hardens.
 
Thanks for everyone's help on this. I've learnt more than I wished to today. I'll head to the builders merchant this weekend armed with at least some idea of what I'll need.
 
Thanks for the update.

The first person to respond (pred) suggested raking out 1" - is that what they did?

Obviously, the reason I found this thread is that I have a similar job to do myself. :(

The bottom plinth (stone in lime mortar) of the wall was covered in bitumen, which had cracked, so the rain got in but couldn't escape.

See
http://www.imagesofengland.org.uk/details/default.aspx?id=402267
[the text is wrong - the house was re-built about 1915, with brick cavity walls & d.p.c. elsewhere - but the stone plinth to the facade is old]

We've had this bitumen sand-blasted off, and I'm hacking off the mis-matched patches prior to re-pointing the entire area, so that it's uniform.
 
Yes; I've got one - works like a bastard! But the challenge is to rake out the joints to an inch. The joints vary very much in width - from inch to inch ! Sometimes VERY thin. And the lime mortar is tough as old boots. I don't want to damage the stone.

Perhaps I shall have to resort to HCl. Any one used it for this?

Charlie was a chemist,
But Charlie is no more.
For what Charlie thought was H 2 O
Was H 2 SO 4.
 

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