Stop Valve Caps

[opps]

I think the plumber will know that.
Thank you for your input.

With respect, and I do genuinely mean that...

The impression that I got was that you want to remove the rad yourself in the meantime, hence I recommended using one or more washers if you use end caps.

Please do not think that I was being combative. You may believe that you have explained the scenario correctly, but as is often the case, it takes someone who probably knows enough to not to need to ask the question in the first place to frame the question correctly.

I had assumed that the valves were, possibly, for example, valves to stop the flow on heating pipes running from the first floor down to the ground floor, in other words, valves added to allow a rad to be fitted after the initial install by a previous owner. My assumption may well be incorrect, but again, if you zoom out and show the proper plumbers here the wider picture, they will be able to advise you better.

 

[bolo 2]

If they are connected to CH pipework to a radiator then you really need to get someone in to remove them and install proper fittings. They are not designed to be installed onto CH and will get worse of time, I have come across these on CH system before and they just leak constantly from the valve.
Get them removed before they get to that point.

Thank you for your post. I can assure you that I have no intention of removing the valves myself - the plumber will do that sometime soon. And with the CH now switched off for the summer, I will leave it be until he does come.

 

[dilalio]

Ballofixs leak when actuated about 7 times out of 10.

I always either remove or replace them.
Only full bore isolators (lever) should be used on heating.

Sometimes they can be made to stop with a bit of a technique when opening/closing them. Hard to describe but it involves changing the pressure applied to the slotted head, as you turn it.. Even pushing it in and quickly releasing can help sometimes.

 

[Madrab]

Thank you for your post. I can assure you that I have no intention of removing the valves myself - the plumber will do that sometime soon. And with the CH now switched off for the summer, I will leave it be until he does come.

No bother - they just aren't suited to the temp swings normally generated in the CH, that and the chemicals used to clean and inhibit can eat at the seals over the longer term as they aren't the most expensive of parts and tend to use cheaper, less resilient materials. The less they are used the better until replaced or removed.

 

[bolo 2]

No bother - they just aren't suited to the temp swings normally generated in the CH, that and the chemicals used to clean and inhibit can eat at the seals over the longer term as they aren't the most expensive of parts and tend to use cheaper, less resilient materials. The less they are used the better until replaced or removed.

They were fitted 20 years ago when the rad that was there was moved to an adjoining wall. Ever since then I’ve been paying to get the errors he made rectified.

 

[bolo 2]

I am not a plumber but would recommend that you ask your plumber to fit lever valves rather than those awful ball fixing valves.

Wouldn’t that be quite cheeky to tell or ask my plumber what to fit? And is the recommendation sound? What do the plumbers here think?

 

[terryplumb]

I would question the need for any isolation valves on the feed to an individual radiator.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

There are very few good reasons for having iso valves on radiators. There is an argument for being able to isolate a floor or the hot water cylinder (so if you are moving a downstairs rad you don't have to drain the whole system). In those cases yes use the lever fullbore valves.

 

[Madrab]

IMO ball ISO valves have no business being on any CH pipework, especially just before rads, that's what rad valves are for. They are not designed for the job and only cause problems longer term, especially if the inhibitor levels drop and the system starts to get dirty.

Certain valves in certain positions on a CH system can allow for easier servicing but they need to be of good quality and fit for purpose and located in certain strategic positions. Water supply ISO valves installed onto CH ahead of the rads, IMO, are just a problem waiting to happen.

 

[dilalio]

I don't like them anywhere!
I always use the butterfly handle ones on hot and cold feeds now.
Less likely to be butchered by someone using the wrong screwdriver (or butter knife!) in a panic.

But not on heating!