He also said that he needed to change the spur's as they were old and didn't have a light... which i told my mate to decline...
They do not need a light/indicator, and they shouldn't be fused spurs either.
20A double pole switches would be more usual, particularly with the 4 element heaters which are rated about 14A.
Any cheap multimeter can be used to identify the problem(s) in a few minutes.
1. Continuity across the thermostat/cutout. If there is no continuity, reset the thing or fit a new one.
2. Resistance of elements, test the whole set of elements while still installed, and only remove individual ones for testing if the total resistance is wrong. One element about 60 ohms, 2 would be 30 ohms, 3 is 20 ohms, 4 is 15 ohms.
That will cover 99% of faults.
Other unlikely failures are incoming terminal block melted/burnt, defective thermostat which opens when slightly warm rather than hot, or other bizarre issues such as dead mice in there, water from vase of flowers tipped inside causing extensive rust, wire insulation damaged when the previous person replaced the cover incorrectly, element terminals loose because the installer forgot to tighten them up. etc.
Generally, sudden failures are due to people drying clothing on them - including in the daytime when power is not on. Occasionally the cutout fails due to age.
Gradual failures where one side heats up and the other does not, or heat output is less than it should be are the elements failing one at a time. These are often left for months/years before people decide to have them repaired.