Storage Heaters on Econ 7 not working

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He also said that he needed to change the spur's as they were old and didn't have a light... which i told my mate to decline...
They do not need a light/indicator, and they shouldn't be fused spurs either.
20A double pole switches would be more usual, particularly with the 4 element heaters which are rated about 14A.

Any cheap multimeter can be used to identify the problem(s) in a few minutes.
1. Continuity across the thermostat/cutout. If there is no continuity, reset the thing or fit a new one.
2. Resistance of elements, test the whole set of elements while still installed, and only remove individual ones for testing if the total resistance is wrong. One element about 60 ohms, 2 would be 30 ohms, 3 is 20 ohms, 4 is 15 ohms.
That will cover 99% of faults.

Other unlikely failures are incoming terminal block melted/burnt, defective thermostat which opens when slightly warm rather than hot, or other bizarre issues such as dead mice in there, water from vase of flowers tipped inside causing extensive rust, wire insulation damaged when the previous person replaced the cover incorrectly, element terminals loose because the installer forgot to tighten them up. etc.

Generally, sudden failures are due to people drying clothing on them - including in the daytime when power is not on. Occasionally the cutout fails due to age.
Gradual failures where one side heats up and the other does not, or heat output is less than it should be are the elements failing one at a time. These are often left for months/years before people decide to have them repaired.
 
When I get a chance I'll spend a bit of time investigating it a bit more in terms of what wires are where, in and out for thermostats etc. Didn't have much time to investigate this one, but hopefully bit more knowledge for next time!
 
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Got confirmation that all is working...

Thanks for all the help and info! i know what im looking for next time! and for anyone else who may have similar issues!
 
I'm surprised they are working this morning, as the heaters with some elements still ok inside, would have still be getting hot.

Considering this chap tried to tell your mate he needed new fused spurs as his old ones were no longer allowed without a neon, I suspect all he really did is replace the thermal cut outs and charged for 5 elements... :evil:
 
I'm surprised they are working this morning, as the heaters with some elements still ok inside, would have still be getting hot.

Considering this chap tried to tell your mate he needed new fused spurs as his old ones were no longer allowed without a neon, I suspect all he really did is replace the thermal cut outs and charged for 5 elements... :evil:

or rather then replace the cutouts - maybe even just reset them! Only the guy who came round will know!

The prices on the company website state £35 for an element, £45 for thermostat...

Got prices off storage heater.co.uk - element is £15.25 and thermostat and cutout is £50.95...

So for his prices, element prob has biggest profit!


looking atstorageheaters.co.uk - there are essentially 3 parts:
element,
thermostat + cutout
and accelerator resistor...

Can someone give me a description of what the resistor does?

Its not on the dimplex diagram linked earlier but is preset on the heaters I've seen?
 
A mechanical ( bi-metal ) thermostat switches ON at one temperature but switches OFF at a higher temperature. ( called hysteresis ) The difference can be several degrees and would result in noticeable temperature changes in the room. The "accelerator" compensates by adding a bit of warmth inside the thermostat when the heating is switched ON This means the bi-metal switches OFF at a room air temperature that is closer to the temperature at which the thermostat switched ON.

Read more: //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/replacing-room-thermostat.423457/#3288859#ixzz3RKZ3tPtK
 

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